I got this Naish TT for free (Thanks!) as it has a crack above the red line on the top and I'm looking to turn it into a pocket foil board but I'm not sure how much I need to strengthen it.
I'm going to chop it down where I've marked red and put carbon or fiberglass strips where I've marked green. Would this be enough to strengthen and stiffen it enough to use for foiling? Should I do anything else?
Also, to make the fiberglass/carbon stick to the board better do I need to do anything special other than sanding it?
The board I'm using now is just a bit of marine ply from bunnings and it weighs a tonne but works. I can water start straight onto the foil so I'm just looking for something that will be light and just buoyant enough to float with my alloy foil.
Looking for any suggestions or ideas as I want to make something that will last awhile.
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VIC1546 posts
16 Dec 2018 8:08PM
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Hi all, by popular request here's some info on my method for converting an old twintip to foilboard. This is the second board I've made for foiling, the first being the 114x46cm beast in this thread - www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Kitesurfing/Foiling/New-minimalist-home-built-foilboard?page=1
The second board is a 2012 naish momentum, 136x43. Here are the steps:
Cut 12cm off the tail - seal with epoxy.
Drill oversize holes for foil mount and fill with epoxy-microballoon mix (rear holes 12cm from tail).
Sand base and fill channels with epoxy-microballoon mix.
Two tapered and angle offset bits of unidirectional carbon on the base, starting behind the rear mount holes and going as far forward as my front foot.
Two staggered bits of uni-carbon on the deck, again only from the rear mount holes to an estimated front foot position.
Fill coat of epoxy-microballoon mix for the underside, including building up a few mm thick where the mast will sit.
Sand the mast mount area flat.
Drill out mounting holes - 10mm (having marked them earlier so you know where to drill.
Drill satellite 3mm holes for the teeth of the m8 T-nuts to sit in (the oversize original holes are large enough that the satellite holes are still within the filler, so no wood exposed ever.
With a tiny bit of epoxy, set the T-nuts into the holes. Then, being certain that no resin has gotten onto the internal thread of the T-nut, screw a mounting bolt in from the underside, with a few washers on, and tighten moderately. This pulls the T-nut down and seats it firmly on the topside of the board.
As in pics I use countersunk bolts sitting in oversize washers. This lets the angle of the bolt conform to the t-nut, rather than fight it in the case that the t-nut and bottom mounting surface aren't perfectly parallel.
Paint the bottom of the board if you want.
Put some sort of deck grip on the top. (I didn't use a filler on the top laminate as it is all covered by the deckpad.
Ride.
This board handles very similarly to my made from scratch shorter and slightly wider board. Despite much chatter to the contrary they both get going with a similar amount of power and both handle touchdowns very similarly. The only noticeable difference is that on the twintip board, due to rocker between the foil mount and my front foot, my front foot is both slightly higher, and slightly angled back. This is perhaps an advantage when dropping down larger swells, but really I simply get used to whichever board I'm on.
The twintip board took less time and materials to make than the original pawlonia board. The naish worked well because there is no shaping on the topside of this model, so the standing area is all flat.
I'm going to make a smaller (100 x 43cm) pawlonia board with a variation on my original kerfing technique, and ride the twintip board in the meantime, so the original is up for sale if anyone wants a small, light, tough, simple board.
Any questions, hit me up.
I've read that topic. I was seeing what other information is out there...
Do not use with heavy type foils as it will sink
I tried the other day putting an old Trick waterski on my XXLW Spitfire.
it also goes straight up to foil so my thinking was minimal weight.
first thing was check if it floated. NO.
so taped a slice of polystyrene to bottom. Fixed that. was planning to use it strapless but found out my tired old body needs some stretching exercises to be able to hold board to feet . Or lose gut maybe.
next time out it has straps.
but it's looking like the limiting factor in going small is volume to float your rig.
Regarding your tt, you will need to add some foam deck grip to it, and might have to add more in spots to keep it floating. A local around here has done what you have done and his results are good.
I tried the other day putting an old Trick waterski on my XXLW Spitfire.
it also goes straight up to foil so my thinking was minimal weight.
first thing was check if it floated. NO.
so taped a slice of polystyrene to bottom. Fixed that. was planning to use it strapless but found out my tired old body needs some stretching exercises to be able to hold board to feet . Or lose gut maybe.
next time out it has straps.
but it's looking like the limiting factor in going small is volume to float your rig.
Regarding your tt, you will need to add some foam deck grip to it, and might have to add more in spots to keep it floating. A local around here has done what you have done and his results are good.
Yeah, I was planning to get some thick deck foam so it just floats.
Put a heavy foil on a shinn board, checked it on the pool, yes it floated, just. Took it out, all good until I crashed, board disappeared, oh bugger. It did resurface but took awhile, I didn't take into account the forward momentum taking it deep.
Put a heavy foil on a shinn board, checked it on the pool, yes it floated, just. Took it out, all good until I crashed, board disappeared, oh bugger. It did resurface but took awhile, I didn't take into account the forward momentum taking it deep.
That's the same as the marine ply i'm using now, takes awhile to come up but it always does.