The D link system offers more than just geometrical freedom of "swivel and pivot" .
It also reduces stress on the Dyneema by completely eliminating "any sharp angle" out of the equation.
Anchored directly from one side to the other with the only curve at the pulley is simplicity with a low maintenance and long performance life = lowest cost and more time on the water .
I'm following this thread with interest, and am about to replace my dyneema (and grommets if possible).
I'm happy with my V8, using the dyneema slider, but the grommets have deformed a little (not split or broken), and there appears to be the start of fraying of the dyneema.
I'll probably incorporate whatever comes out of your testing to be the best/safest option, so I'm just wondering how the tests went.
Thanks
Used my new Dynabar V8 XW twice now with the original setup and I love it.
- Rope, pulley, chicken loop
- Ring on rope for short leash
After reading this thread I think I will remove the red ball and attach 2nd safety directly to the frame. I would prefer attaching somewhere on my harness but I don't have anywhere for a short leash and would rather not go back to a long leash. It does seem odd me in the original setup the second safety and pulley are both on the same line, if the rope breaks the whole kite is gone.
My concern is I generally start my sessions of boosting on a Twin Tip then switch to directional for some carving. Am I not putting a huge amount of strain on the rope if I'm boosting with it?
I do everything with the D-bar and I weigh more than you. Check it before your session, and go for it. Odds are good the rope is stronger than a Dakine spreader bar anyway
Add a second rope in the bottom holes on the spreader bar...
The spare rope is the go, make it a little longer than the original so it's not wearing. Just a safety net when the rope does break....because it will. Then you will be able to ride back and get it sorted without losing the whole deal. Your ring is vulnerable as it is so you will lose the kite.
Just got myself the dynarbar v8 xt and prowave slider. The metal prowave slider isn't fitting into the middle metal frame (seems slightly too wide). I can just get it to go in, but not in properly and it will come back out because of the tension. Is this normal? Just seems a little bit too wide.
I love the Dynabar with the sliding rope, would never go back to a fixed hook.
Just wondering are there any disadvantages if any using the pro metal slider bar?
A plus would be not having to worry about checking your rope for wear all the time.
Seems everyone is sold on the rope idea.
Ok got the sliding hook on the metal slider and im finding that my chicken loop will come out sometimes in really strong movements. Like relaunching or self launching particularly. Has anyone else ever had this issue? I have a core sensor 2 bar and im not sure if my chickenstick is supposed to be able to move 90 degrees from where it attaches. I cant remember if it was fixed at the base before and thus is the reason for the problem now. Seems like it?
Finally wore my rope out this week. 70 sessions since I got it, fresh and salt water, TT, directionals and foils . . . couple of hours a sesh. Only noticed cos I happened to look down. Parted in the center, so I rode it back to the beach. No drama.
So I did a 101km session test using the prowave metal slider to see if it was better than the rope...
First up this had a faster sliding motion, probably too quick, when jumping slider could move around easily pulling you off center but I think you could adapt to this.
Was all good until the plastic roller began to deform and then just started to slide and grab rather then roll, I thought/suspected this would probably happen before even using.
I don't know if this is a quality issue or just poor engineering, I think a brass, bronze or harder plastic (UHMWPE) roller is needed and maybe more people would use this option.
The contact surface between roller or pulley is very small and
the roller slides instead of turning. There are also bending areas who are not completely smooth.
We tried harder delrin glass loaded but it wears more quickly.
The rope works better because it creates an angle and increases the contact with the pulley who is designed to have max contact surface.
I'd be more interested in a loop behind the roller to catch the rope/slider in case the screw holding the roller ever failed...
We will give a try, thanks.
Meanwhile we have finalised the "Greenarrowz solution" and you can contact Kitepower Australia for availability dates.
Sounds like the goods....
I been using my original for months now with no complaints.
Would jaystore consider sending me one out for testing? ?
I have a idea for a micro rachet rope adjuster in mind.
You can use the bearing block we sell or similar. You remove the shackle and insert a plastic tie in the knot then pull it through the bearing block hole.
The knot is specially spliced and you can't open it and make it back.
Sorry for the shipping price, Kitepower Australia submitted an order today and we will deliver mid June.