Dyneema halyard replacement

Last outing we managed to snap the casing on the dyneema main halyard. I'd been warned that this would happen in about 3yrs, which it transpired is about right. As its the main I'm going to replace it, not end for end it like we did last time with the spinnaker halyard.

I am trying to work out the best option for a replacement.

The root cause is people not taking up the tension with a winch before trying to release the jam cleat, which is going to happen humans being humans. The case snaps where the jaws bite into the rope. But when I look at Dyneema rope options, it is all about stretch and creep and strength, there is little information about the actual casing, or cover, itself.

Is there such a thing as a tougher casing option, rather than the dyneema core, available?

Appreciate any advice!
SB

Yes, there are definitely options with tougher casings, with the associated rise in cost. I'm not spruiking anyone, but a rigger will point you in the right direction...

Hi Shaggy

Would replacing the clutch with a constrictor type help www.ronstan.com.au/marine5/constrictor.asp

Regards Don

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Donk107 said..
Hi Shaggy

Would replacing the clutch with a constrictor type help www.ronstan.com.au/marine5/constrictor.asp

Regards Don

Hi Don,
Yes mate, it certainly would. I was a bit leery of them when they first came out, but the reports seem to indicate they ironed the kinks out.
Id need to put some thought into the mast jammers, as the existing mast plate isn't the right size or hole pattern, but the cabin top would be pretty easy to convert.
Something to talk to the rigger about for sure. This one will be 60+ mtrs of 12mm as it's a 2:1, so the extra cost would even itself out pretty quick one would think, especially as this will be the 6th rope we've done.

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Donk107 said..
Hi Shaggy

Would replacing the clutch with a constrictor type help www.ronstan.com.au/marine5/constrictor.asp

Regards Don

or simply back up to horn cleat and release the clutch the chaff goes off the rope and the horn cleat is easy to release and does not creep

Hey Shaggy,
Talk to IRB ropes up your way but here is my take on it.
First issue is tightness of cover on core. Cheaper spectra (like Whitworths stuff) is loose and wears a whole heap quicker.
We use FSE spectra in 8mm and up as it's not only bloody tight but it has a colour matched and UV treated core.

Now if it was my boat or I was doing the work, I'd probably suggest the following .

Getting the right length SK75 dyneema from Hampdijan and buying the correct cover from IRB but only covering the length from just in front of the clutch down.
This would mean you could replace cover every couple of years without removing the halyard.
I would then cover the top end (only enough for full hoist as less chafe due to rotation at 1 reef or more) with a technora chafe sleeve.

The top end would have a brummel splice meaning the halyard would be relatively bendy (compared to a full covered splice).
Full covered splices cause issues with chafe due to their stiffness and thickness, also the thickness can make the last 4ft hard to hoist.

Happy to do quote on if you like, message me if interested:)