Select to expand quotecisco said... southace said..
Do you like my engine mounts CISCO or should I change them?
Looks like denso tape around the threads of the mounts. That is great.
My only other thought on engine mounts is if you are going to have flexible engine mounts, get the most rigid ones you can find.
Ok call me stupid, I know there must be a reason, but I don't understand why you would need to protect your engine mounts with tape.
Is Denso tape a must have for the on board spares and repairs kit? I ve never used it before.
Interesting idea, Loose - I'll throw that in the mix and see what comes out. Think I'll use it a few times as is to assess the amount and locations of contact.
Cheers,
Select to expand quoteDrRog said..andy59 said..
Next,
- buy working up/down switch (mine's dodgy) and install in cockpit (anyone have any recommendations re best place for this?)
- assess what might be needed to protect the surface of the hatch/deck as the chain runs across it. Maybe some SS sheeting.
- install deck switch/es? Not sure I want a switch on deck so wondering if I can put it inside the anchor locker on deck. However, because the chain runs across the lid I'd need to keep a plastic winch handle somewhere forward so I can change it to free fall to lift chain to open locker to activate the switch. Then when it's up I'd need to do that again to close the lid. Gah, sounds like a hassle. Maybe I don't need switch/es at the bow. Any opinions based on experience???
Nice job dr Rog are you thinking of having a switch near the winch and one in the cockpit as well?
Thanks Andy. Yeah, sorry I wasn't very clear. I plan on putting an up/down switch in the cockpit under the dodger but where it can be activated whilst peering around the side of the dodger. Then I think I'll put a single up switch (of the foot switch type) on the back horizontal face of the inside of the anchor locker on deck which I can activate with the locker lid open. I figure I can use the controlled free-fall mode for down, saving power and reducing winch usage. If I think I need a down switch at the bow I can install one later.
Really looking forward to watching 30 metres of chain come on deck automagically!
Sounds like a good set up
Yes the I 70 to me seems to have a variety of features for the price even with depth and knots the screen can move between a few screens alterted by the operator.
And the other thing I liked about it is the engine data could also be on the screen with adding the appropriate modal. To me VDO gages are not really meant to be on deck they not really made for that environment .
Ill still have a go at the Instrument pod and reduce its height and also the shape so it blends in with the hatch I hate cutting holes in a boats hull or deck . even the forward cabin sea cocks I'm filling in next time is out of the water .
Moving my head location is really for storing my wet weather gear Ill hang over the side and use a bucket 
But I have to have one for the ladies if South Ace ever throws a spare back packer over board 
Andy Denso tape Ive mainly use in corrosive environments as an example we had a loader working in a very corrosive environment and every thing was wrapped in Denso tape along with a lot of other protection. its good stuff to keep rust and corrosion away from threads and any metal 
The I 70 to me means less clutter on deck. I can use my own chart plotter . Id like to mirror it up to a I pad or a similar tablet screen and be able to clip it on to the instrument pod and take it off when not in use
I just pulled a trial piece of veneer Id use a bote coat e glue on
In not touching the other panel till tomorrow night.
I am hoping to flow coat the panel with epoxy to seal it and make it tuff and durable, Well thats the plan not sure if it will be successful or not you have to try though
This was a real quick whats left over below Ill trim it and flow coat it see what the out come is Ive seen some really nice epoxy flow coats on you tube not sure what epoxy is best to do this with any one know? I was going with my bote coat see how it goes
Select to expand quoteandy59 said..cisco said... southace said..
Do you like my engine mounts CISCO or should I change them?
Looks like denso tape around the threads of the mounts. That is great.
My only other thought on engine mounts is if you are going to have flexible engine mounts, get the most rigid ones you can find.
Ok call me stupid, I know there must be a reason, but I don't understand why you would need to protect your engine mounts with tape.
Is Denso tape a must have for the on board spares and repairs kit? I ve never used it before.
Denso tape is a fabric tape impregnated with a grease. It is used a lot on hydraulic hose connections to prevent rust.
I wouldn't call it a "must have onboard" and it can be a bit messy. To prevent rust on engine mounts lanolin or just boating grease does the job just as well.
before and after
After my second coat at home here and after just putting the paint on and a hoard of insects stuck to the paint so I ended up taking it to work and the boys did it for me after work .Which was excellent .
My Huon Pine veneer I'm no pro in this field its my first attempt and what ever happens Ill be using it.
I have to trim the excess veneer off the ply Ive used and also also cut the veneer around the stereo and VHF radio cut out that are already in the ply wood . Once thats done Ill try and flow coat epoxy over the Huon pine to seal it up and toughen the finish. My joins are not the best but it will do me fine.
I used sticky tape to hold the two veneers together while epoxying the to the ply it came off easily .There is a special tape your should use but I could not find a store or a on line shop that sells it in Australia to use
Max wind speed 23knots (glad I put the messy reef in!) Garry sweet on board said it was sweet I tend to agree!
Nah, sorry SA, like the Look of the old one better. That sea water pump? Don't change that, it's beautiful!
Select to expand quoteFreeRadical said...
Nah, sorry SA, like the Look of the old one better. That sea water pump? Don't change that, it's beautiful!
Nah looks terrible South Ace sell it to me
If the old faucet still works and you you like to sell it please let me know 
Select to expand quoteFreeRadical said..
Nah, sorry SA, like the Look of the old one better. That sea water pump? Don't change that, it's beautiful!
The sea water pump is connected to the fresh water anyway! It's coming out today!
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
If u want to sell those bad boys I'll give u some beer money
PM me your Po box and I will send them to you with pleasure!
If I was doing it again Id do the cut outs later after it was finished and I would also make a vacuum bag for the veneer
Mr Impatient
I missed a step when trying to veneer the above , I should have wiped both surfaces with at the very least Metho to remove the wood oils before gluing.
I dont thnk the piece Ive just done will last sadly 
And the epoxy flow coat the same wipe with Metho before hand
I'll have another go at it
Buy a 12 volt compressor use the inlet to make vacuum
Buy some metho
Cut out another ply panel with out the cut outs
Venerr it flow coat and then do the radio cut outs
I'll be able to use some of the panel I've alread done just not near the cut outs
Atleast I've learnd some thing
Ordered my Engels fridge yesterday a MB40 http://www.sailboatstuff.com/ref_drop-in_fridge_freezers.html
The above link give a lot more info
www.engelaustralia.com.au/2products_details.asp?pid=22&productid=21565
We sell Engels at work so I get a staff discount
Sea trial no 4 , full main and headsail , single handed most of the day as my mate has back issues and was a touch hung over!
Hi all I just revarnished the tiller on my Manly Junior Ill post some pics when Ive went dried it 
Select to expand quoteRicardo1709 said..
Hi all I just revarnished the tiller on my Manly Junior Ill post some pics when Ive went dried it
Have not seen a Manly Junior in many many years looking forward to it
Lugged these bad boys down to the boat and did a a quick solar panel hook up to top them up for the fridge next week
it was improvise day as you can see below
Just put them in the keel locker till I sort some mountings. As I'm not moving at the moment they will be OK.
I used that first piece of veneer I did . I may take it out later on and give it a sand and flow coat it again
It will do for now any way Ill sort out the wiring next week . Still waiting for my tyab twin core to arrive
One more thing Ive been a little worried about having a sink next to the top loader fridge so Ive decided to fit the fridge in the stove compartment and move the stove to the starboard side with the sinks.
This is 600 wide the fridges are 500 wide 450 deep and 340 back towards the hull so I can fit two which I'm going to do it will give me a few choices on what I need at the time The compressors will be fitted remotely
Ok it wasn't today it was yesterday. Sailed up the coast to Geroa, Westerly freshened so headed for home. Only about 1 mile off the coast, two reefs in the main and a few turns on the headsail. Flat water but plenty of breeze. The SS tube that holds the turning blocks for the self steering gear control line bent in slightly. Just enough for the shackle pins to catch on the frame of the gear and bend the gears tiller and also bend the alloy push rod. Video shows the gear disconnected. All that was needed was a spectra brace and all this drama could have been prevented. Something to repair during the week.
I had to hand steer!
Just experimenting loading a video with out using Youtube.
[URL=i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc78/fishermantwo/IMGP1114.mp4] i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc78/fishermantwo/th_IMGP1114.mp4
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
Ok it wasn't today it was yesterday. Sailed up the coast to Geroa, Westerly freshened so headed for home. Only about 1 mile off the coast, two reefs in the main and a few turns on the headsail. Flat water but plenty of breeze. The SS tube that holds the turning blocks for the self steering gear control line bent in slightly. Just enough for the shackle pins to catch on the frame of the gear and bend the gears tiller and also bend the alloy push rod. Video shows the gear disconnected. All that was needed was a spectra brace and all this drama could have been prevented. Something to repair during the week.
I had to hand steer!
Just experimenting loading a video with out using Youtube.
[URL=i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc78/fishermantwo/IMGP1114.mp4] i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc78/fishermantwo/th_IMGP1114.mp4
Ramona you have spent some hours on that race car
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
Ok it wasn't today it was yesterday. Sailed up the coast to Geroa, Westerly freshened so headed for home. Only about 1 mile off the coast, two reefs in the main and a few turns on the headsail. Flat water but plenty of breeze. The SS tube that holds the turning blocks for the self steering gear control line bent in slightly. Just enough for the shackle pins to catch on the frame of the gear and bend the gears tiller and also bend the alloy push rod. Video shows the gear disconnected. All that was needed was a spectra brace and all this drama could have been prevented. Something to repair during the week.
I had to hand steer!
Just experimenting loading a video with out using Youtube.
[URL=i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc78/fishermantwo/IMGP1114.mp4] i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc78/fishermantwo/th_IMGP1114.mp4
Video took way too long to load.
