Following a moment of madness, I decided to replace the GRP cover to the anchor locker with a timber cover. The previous owner had fitted a windlass, which reduced the size of the locker, so the new design has a frame, which fits into the cover-hole, and a lid. The frame is complete, see photo below, and the cover has just begun. It has been challenging because, being a boat, nothing is straight and nothing is at right angles - for instance, I'm putting a camber on the lid.
Anyhow, the frame is made from a $45 recycled plank of Merbau (brown) from the used timber shop and the trim is Meranti (light tan) from the Big Green Hardware Shop down the road (maybe $30 total). I would have liked to tried teak, but couldn't find any, and didn't want to pay for some nice, shiny new timber when there is a good chance I can stuff it up grandly.
The photo shows the current project with a little Linseed oil applied to bring out the colours. It would be a waste to paint it, and I don't expect external varnish to last long on the Merbau.
So, my question is what oil or treatment do you recommend? It will get a beating from sun and sea on the bow.
Select to expand quoteAchernar said..
Following a moment of madness, I decided to replace the GRP cover to the anchor locker with a timber cover. The previous owner had fitted a windlass, which reduced the size of the locker, so the new design has a frame, which fits into the cover-hole, and a lid. The frame is complete, see photo below, and the cover has just begun. It has been challenging because, being a boat, nothing is straight and nothing is at right angles - for instance, I'm putting a camber on the lid.
Anyhow, the frame is made from a $45 recycled plank of Merbau (brown) from the used timber shop and the trim is Meranti (light tan) from the Big Green Hardware Shop down the road (maybe $30 total). I would have liked to tried teak, but couldn't find any, and didn't want to pay for some nice, shiny new timber when there is a good chance I can stuff it up grandly.
The photo shows the current project with a little Linseed oil applied to bring out the colours. It would be a waste to paint it, and I don't expect external varnish to last long on the Merbau.
So, my question is what oil or treatment do you recommend? It will get a beating from sun and sea on the bow.
Trust me on this one best stuff ever!
+1 for above!!
2 coats of that colour on Meranti ply and Tassie Oak trim
then under about 8-10 coats varnish (i lost count)
Edit:
Achernar, I should clarify a little. Everything was coated with enough epoxy to seal, especially the endgrain - that will give you protection and longevity, but it's not UV stable - so good varnish over the top will give you UV protection. When you need to maintain later you'll be retouching layers of varnish without touching your original construction. Hope that helps.
I am of a different opinion.
If the hatch cover comes all the way down to meet the deck, none of the hatch coaming will be seen.
Therefore Epoxy coat for a water proof seal and then paint.
The interior will not be seen and is a working space, so epoxy coat and paint.
The forward edge should have a stainless steel capping to protect the top and inside surface.
The hatch cover is a different situation.
It will be seen, so go ahead and let your hair down.
Just remember to not end up with a beautiful shiny SLIPPERY surface.
Looking forward to seeing the completed job.
Gary
Select to expand quotegarymalmgren said..
I am of a different opinion.
If the hatch cover comes all the way down to meet the deck, none of the hatch coaming will be seen.
Therefore Epoxy coat for a water proof seal and then paint.
The interior will not be seen and is a working space, so epoxy coat and paint.
The forward edge should have a stainless steel capping to protect the top and inside surface.
The hatch cover is a different situation.
It will be seen, so go ahead and let your hair down.
Just remember to not end up with a beautiful shiny SLIPPERY surface.
Looking forward to seeing the completed job.
Gary
What's the best way to get rid of the slippery surface of varnish and not affect the finish?
deks Olje, now sold as Owatrol. I use it on masts and spars, oars and all other bright work, the no.1 is a matt finish and if you want a varnish type finish use the no.2 on top, it wears well but like all oil finishes it requires reapplying but that's not much of a chore
I made a boarding platform out of Merbau and used Sikkens Cetol on it, it only needs recovering right now after 4 years.
Thank you all for your suggestions.
However, I am considering NOT varnishing it. The reasons are; slippery finish, might de-bond from Merbau, can look shabby if not maintained (I've tried it on the Princess seats, which are simple Merbau planks, and they are beginning to delaminate). For comparison, you would not varnish teak decking, but teak has high natural oils. Also, I don't want to stain it, because the stain will also work on the Meranti and I like the contrast in the natural colours.
So, what are the options with oils? I'm thinking of Linseed, which is cheap, quick and easy to apply (just rub it on). But I don't know how it would fare in the QLD sun. What oil would you put on teak?
Raw linseed will go black, boiled linseed is better, it's the base of deks no.1. I've seen a few home made decking oil recipes where linseed is the base also. wet it out till it won't take any more and wipe of excess
Hi Salty
Re;
What's the best way to get rid of the slippery surface of varnish and not affect the finish?
I would make the hatch frame with dovetailed and screwed and plugged joints.
This can be varnished or as mentioned oiled.
Then lay a ply panel and do as Azure did with his cockpit rebuild. Lay artificial teak.
The top surface of the hatch needs to be resilient to footwear, dropped or dragged chain, snap shackles etc.
and also offer a good foothold.
One point for Achernar. With luck you can use the old hinges, if not possible, buy your hinges before you make your hatch.
Below is Azures work.
Gary
Tung oil is the base of deks no.2, l sometimes add a few drops of terebine to dry it faster if the weather is dodgy. it gives a supprizingly good gloss finish that's easy to apply and wears well, no good for decks as with any shiny surface it can be slippery when wet.
You can consider Star Brite or Owatrol products. Both of them are high quality and their ability to protect your boat's teak surfaces for a long period.
Try a 50-50 mix of Tung oil and citrus oil. It will never fail like all the envelope coatings like paint and varnish.
George
I mix Tung oil with gum turpentine 50/50 and add a small amount of pine tar available from produce stores as a treatment for horses hoves. For some non slip quality melt some beeswax and add. Some use 1/3 each of Tung oil boiled linseed oil and gum turps with pine tar adder . Also for a harder finish on the final coats add watsons terebine. When using Tung oil let the first few coats be wet and wipe off excess before it begins to gell. 10 or 15 coats to set up the finish then re cost every three months. The beauty of Tung oil is it penetrates better than any other oil and it dries hard. Any scratches then a light rub and redcoat fixes it. I saw a hardwood planked boat with this finish using refined linseed oil and a bit of added pine tar on the entire boat a few weeks ago and it looked fantastic. He had done sixty coats! Once the first few coats are done the rest are easy and given the hatch is a small area it should be an easy job. I use Cetol on my Oregon spars and would advise using it if not using Tung oil.
