Just wondering if anyone has installed (or replaced) primary winches on their boats? Is it a difficult job that should be left to a shipwright? Or is it something that a reasonably handy layman can manage?
thanks
Steve
Select to expand quoteElectra said..
Just wondering if anyone has installed (or replaced) primary winches on their boats? Is it a difficult job that should be left to a shipwright? Or is it something that a reasonably handy layman can manage?
thanks
Steve
Did mine.
No unforseen problems. Unfortunately the bolt holes will probably have to be filled as they are likely to be a different pattern/spacing.
If the area is cored rather than solid fiberglass make sure you drill an oversized hole, fill with epoxy then re drill the required size hole to protect the core against leaks.I couldnt resist adding ply backing plates(painted with epoxy) but it probably wasn't necessary as the originals had done just fine for 30+ years.
If you buy Hutton/Arco winches you can give him your old ones and he will use the old hole pattern so you don't need new holes.
my coach top winches screw into a aluminium deck plate imbedded in the core of the deck. Possibly something to consider.
I'm with Jules, its an easy job. Fill in the old holes, probbaly epoxy in a new plywood backing pad underneath. Then drill the new holes - brush epoxy onto the holes of the plywood. Then install. I am a bit out there - I epoxy everything in - including the bolts so I sond't use butyl tape but I love epoxy and use heat to remove old bolts. For most people I would recommend butyl instead. Nice easy job that doesn't needa shipwright.
One thing - try not to use the technique where you wind the bolt from up top and use vice grips on the bolt up top if you are on your own. It makes the sealant get squished incorrectly. Try and gets someone to help on this bit. There is a way to do it on yourt own but you can't use dome nuts if you do.
Isn't the orientation of a winch important too ? ie the load should enter the winch on the same side as the output drive also some winches have drain grooves so this needs to be considered also
Select to expand quotedialdan said..
Isn't the orientation of a winch important too ? ie the load should enter the winch on the same side as the output drive also some winches have drain grooves so this needs to be considered also
This should be in the instructions that come with the winch. Something to look out for with second hand winches tho.
Sorry I am a bit late responding I needed to get 2nd and 3rd photos. Obviously imho all the above advice is top shelf as always. What winches are you talking about? Cabin top for halyards etc or coaming mounted for kite brace and genoa/kite sheet winches? Both need good structure under them as well as adjacent structure and structural continuity.
We bought a 9.3m racer/cruiser ~8-9yrs ago with the genoa and kite brace and sheet winch mounted on top of the coaming as below - apologies for poor photo resolution - clearly it is a self tailing winch with added cam cleat below it for belts and braces security.........and it was obviously no good at first sight with winch base outer diameter overhanging the coaming width. The usual design arrangement is a column / post design in the coaming at that winch landing of diameter a bit greater than the outside diameter of the winch base max outer diameter, and suitable coaming structural scantlings including under the coaming if needed. Sorry for stating the obvious.
On our yacht there was no structural stiffening under the coaming. When on pick up we sailed down the coast to the harbour the coaming flex was more than a tad alarming.........and first rectification task on the list.
So we added as in the below photos the under coaming top ply pad and lateral stiffening ply gusset, with timber sections added to avoid buckling of the ply free edges and gain structural continuity to the adjacent grp laminate. See a bit tapered ends of the timber sections to avoid a stress concentration at their ends. In hindsight I should have put on more of a taper. Epoxy glue, vinylester gelcoat coarse sanded, acetone cleaned then glued.
I fully realise that the whole additions are as rough as a bear's rear - so please don't comment on that - I will improve the aesthetics soon.................including Norglass Ship Shape painting............
