M/S Polymer glues are the best, hands down.See for instance www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Stand-Up-Paddle/SUP/How-to-re-stick-the-deck-pad-on-a-sup?page=1
Waterproof contact cement. Useless info as US brands and Ozzie brands completely different.
The kind that you apply to both surfaces let dry and then stick is the one.
Both of my Infinity's started to do this recently. Thought it was Winter Water. Maybe not...
. .
JB Weld if you catching it early and got just a tiny edge getting unruly....heavy duty bonder
It's odd that modern day boards have this problem but back in the early days of sup it was a common problem.. I had tried a number of things and I had the best success with auto window sealant.
Select to expand quotecbigsup said..
Waterproof contact cement. Useless info as US brands and Ozzie brands completely different.
The kind that you apply to both surfaces let dry and then stick is the one.
I would avoid them. They are solvent-based glues, that use a potent solvent to dissolve the surfaces that they are applied to in order to stick to them. This is why you have to apply them to both surfaces and let them dry. They will thus damage (slightly) the board surface.
Modern glues like the MS Polymers (an evolution of the polyurethane glues like the gorilla glue) are much better, as they are not solvent based, but polymerize via the air humidity. They can be used on wet surfaces, and some variants can even be used to glue under water. Also since you can apply them to only one surface (the pad) you do not need to bother spreading them on the board into the exact position where the pad will sit, and you can also reposition them for some minutes, contact cement does not tolerate any error. Plus they stay flexible...
I used a lot of contact cements decades ago, but it is medieval compared to MS Polymer.
I respectfully disagree! Lots on info here in USA testing all of the products. Gorilla came in last OBTW. JB Weld strong like bull, but permanent.
Infinity is looking into a different glue as they had lots of issues. I assumed it was a cold water issue, but it was not.
And yes I am aware of the ones that set under water. Prolly really good for many things, but not for deck pad repairs.
Guess I am medieval! LOL!
Select to expand quotecbigsup said..
I respectfully disagree! Lots on info here in USA testing all of the products. Gorilla came in last OBTW. JB Weld strong like bull, but permanent.
Infinity is looking into a different glue as they had lots of issues. I assumed it was a cold water issue, but it was not.
And yes I am aware of the ones that set under water. Prolly really good for many things, but not for deck pad repairs.
Guess I am medieval! LOL!
I agree with your disagree, used kwik grip many times years ago no probs
Select to expand quoteRPG said..
Wont be buying that brand of board......
mate its not the board manufacturer its the deck grip they use, I think they use on a mission. I'm sure now they know about it they'll be on it.
Select to expand quotemicksmith said..RPG said..
Wont be buying that brand of board......
mate its not the board manufacturer its the deck grip they use, I think they use on a mission. I'm sure now they know about it they'll be on it.
Talked to Dave. They know. Making changes.
+1 Mick. OAM is their supplier!
Select to expand quoteRPG said..
Just for interest sake, how much do these retail for?
Not sure, but the boards have had some good reviews, if you go on reviews that is
Select to expand quotemicksmith said..
mate its not the board manufacturer its the deck grip they use, I think they use on a mission. I'm sure now they know about it they'll be on it.
It is both the glue used on the deck pad, and the way it is glued (ambient temperature, humidity, and dust).
At least if it comes off easily, it will be easy to replace with a proper pad :-)
In Hawaii, and in the US, a custom board will often be delivered "Hull Only" i.e. no pad or fins.
Two Rawsons, three Hobies, and an Angulo were all delivered that way.
FCS dimple, Creatures, Punt Surf, and OAM have all been installed.
The OAM is a great pad. Light with both an arch bar and a tail kick. The peeling in two places was a minor annoyance easily taken care of.
I also suspect that the water temp here in New England tests glues in a unique way.
O to 2 centigrade is probably not something most manufactures of either pads or glues are thinking about.
They ALL lift if you go out a LOT in extreme cold water. A very minor nuisance.
Select to expand quotecolas said..micksmith said..
mate its not the board manufacturer its the deck grip they use, I think they use on a mission. I'm sure now they know about it they'll be on it.
It is both the glue used on the deck pad, and the way it is glued (ambient temperature, humidity, and dust).
At least if it comes off easily, it will be easy to replace with a proper pad :-)
Or it could be OAM are using inferior product and haven't been fully aware until now
Select to expand quotemicksmith said..
Or it could be OAM are using inferior product and haven't been fully aware until now
I dont think so. I have put an OAM pad on a board and it never unglued.
On the other hand, I have had boards with the same pad with high quality 3M glue installed in the factory, and one was getting unglued and not the others.
Also, with cold water, using boots is harder on the pad as they generally grip more - and stress the pad more - than when barefoot.
Select to expand quotecolas said..micksmith said..
Or it could be OAM are using inferior product and haven't been fully aware until now
I dont think so. I have put an OAM pad on a board and it never unglued.
On the other hand, I have had boards with the same pad with high quality 3M glue installed in the factory, and one was getting unglued and not the others.
Also, with cold water, using boots is harder on the pad as they generally grip more - and stress the pad more - than when barefoot.
You haven't recently though have you, I'm saying it may be in recent times ie; this particular batch/style of grip.
And you wouldn't know unless of course you're involved in the company.
Select to expand quotemicksmith said..
You haven't recently though have you, I'm saying it may be in recent times ie; this particular batch/style of grip.
And you wouldn't know unless of course you're involved in the company.
Disclaimer: I am a Gong ambassador, so you could say that it is the opposite: I am involved with a competitor to OAM :-)
Seriously, I do not see any pad brand going to an inferior glue, the cost saving would be negligible. Try to buy the cheapest tail pads on the market, their glue is still excellent. Especially since OAM pads are not cheap. Most probably it was badly applied, a lot of things can go wrong and sticking a pad is typically something you tend to leave to juniors or trainees.
frosty1962, do you know if your pad was put in a cold, rainy period?
Select to expand quotecolas said..micksmith said..
You haven't recently though have you, I'm saying it may be in recent times ie; this particular batch/style of grip.
And you wouldn't know unless of course you're involved in the company.
Disclaimer: I am a Gong ambassador, so you could say that it is the opposite: I am involved with a competitor to OAM :-)
Seriously, I do not see any pad brand going to an inferior glue, the cost saving would be negligible. Try to buy the cheapest tail pads on the market, their glue is still excellent. Especially since OAM pads are not cheap. Most probably it was badly applied, a lot of things can go wrong and sticking a pad is typically something you tend to leave to juniors or trainees.
frosty1962, do you know if your pad was put in a cold, rainy period?
That's funny, you said in another thread and I quote, "I guess that depends on the quality of the glue"
Thread: deck grip + adhesive tape
Select to expand quotemicksmith said..
That's funny, you said in another thread and I quote, "I guess that depends on the quality of the glue"
Thread: deck grip + adhesive tape
It was a different thread, about using generic EVA pads not specifically designed for surfboards. I used them on my prone surfboards to go waxless (it was much, much cheaper than surfing pads), and their glue was not 3M. That a very different case than big-name SUP pads.
I have used two pack glue before, but I prefer sikaflex ,rubber silcone, softer under the feet,
Select to expand quotecolas said..cbigsup said..
Waterproof contact cement. Useless info as US brands and Ozzie brands completely different.
The kind that you apply to both surfaces let dry and then stick is the one.
I would avoid them. They are solvent-based glues, that use a potent solvent to dissolve the surfaces that they are applied to in order to stick to them. This is why you have to apply them to both surfaces and let them dry. They will thus damage (slightly) the board surface.
Modern glues like the MS Polymers (an evolution of the polyurethane glues like the gorilla glue) are much better, as they are not solvent based, but polymerize via the air humidity. They can be used on wet surfaces, and some variants can even be used to glue under water. Also since you can apply them to only one surface (the pad) you do not need to bother spreading them on the board into the exact position where the pad will sit, and you can also reposition them for some minutes, contact cement does not tolerate any error. Plus they stay flexible...
I used a lot of contact cements decades ago, but it is medieval compared to MS Polymer.
What brand of silyl modified polyethers would you suggest
Select to expand quoteTimKay said..
What brand of silyl modified polyethers would you suggest
I use the mainstream clear ones, the ones available easily in your local shops, not the ones with additives for special uses.
Try to get them in small quantities, and close them without leaving room for air: ambient moisture trapped in the tube will make them cure. But if they do, the cured part is waterproof so the curing will stop at the surface, so you can still use the rest of the tube by piercing it and taping over it. This is why they must be used in thin layers, thick layers will not cure properly.
For instance I used UHU Max Repair, Pattex 100%, SADER Mega Strong... they work all perfectly for re-glueing pads.
For a (partial) list see the "Universelle Produkte" section of www.wikidorf.de/reintechnisch/Inhalt/MSPolymerKlebstoffe and there is even some tests at the end (use Google Translate if you do not read German).
Select to expand quotetoolate said..
marlon lewis said to use contact cement to me
If you mean neoprene glues, don't.
- it is tricky to apply, you have no time to reposition. As the pads often stretch a bit when coming off, it can be a pain to re-glue if you cannot reposition it to adjust it.
- As it is solvent-based, it damages the board surface if you want to remove the pad afterwards
- It does not hold very well over time. I have used it a lot when younger in my windsurfing days, the MS Polymer are something else entirely.
Select to expand quotecolas said..toolate said..
marlon lewis said to use contact cement to me
If you mean neoprene glues, don't.
- it is tricky to apply, you have no time to reposition. As the pads often stretch a bit when coming off, it can be a pain to re-glue if you cannot reposition it to adjust it.
- As it is solvent-based, it damages the board surface if you want to remove the pad afterwards
- It does not hold very well over time. I have used it a lot when younger in my windsurfing days, the MS Polymer are something else entirely.
Wait are you replying to a jan 2019 ?
has colas finally lost the plot?
