On the DEEP Ocean Boards 7'0" x 27.25" x 4.25 x 95L.
/images/misc/forum-image-missing.gif
/images/misc/forum-image-missing.gif
/images/misc/forum-image-missing.gif
/images/misc/forum-image-missing.gif
/images/misc/forum-image-missing.gif
/images/misc/forum-image-missing.gif
/images/misc/forum-image-missing.gif
/images/misc/forum-image-missing.gif
/images/misc/forum-image-missing.gif
/images/misc/forum-image-missing.gif
/images/misc/forum-image-missing.gif
Frame grabs from video (which is coming soon) by Madi Cassidy.
Cool looking board Casso - did you break a fin or is that by design?
I'd say centre fin aka nubster...
Cool looking board Casso - did you break a fin or is that by design?
I'd say centre fin aka nubster...
Yeah it's a Shapers DarcDrive trailer fin - seems to work really well.
Hi Casso,could you please give us your thoughts on the general things we all view as decision makers with new shapes and lengths. i.e.; stability while waiting around,paddle speed,wave catching ease,turning performance etc. Many thanks, Rocket.
Sure @rodriguez.
This board is 7'0" x 27.25" x 4.25 x 95L, my normal board (pointy nose) is 8'0" x 27.5 x 3.75" x 91L - just as a comparison.
This board is surprisingly stable when waiting out the back - probably due to the increased width at nose and tail. I would call it slightly more stable than my 8'0".
It is fair bit thicker than my 8'0" which makes it sit higher in the water and also makes it paddle very well both onto a wave and over dead sections (the video will probably show this).
The 7'0" is a lot looser yet you can still bury the rail easily - so both very tight snaps and drawn out carves are possible on this board.
I think the biggest difference is the planing speed - the 7'0" has instant acceleration on tap - just find the smallest bit of wall and the thing will just take off. This instant speed is also great for flow between turns - with minimal loss of speed after a turn, moving into the next one feels so fluid.
I was just borrowing this board - but now that I've experienced it - I will be ordering one as soon as I get back from holidays. That's a pretty good indication of how good it goes.
Sure @rodriguez.
This board is 7'0" x 27.25" x 4.25 x 95L, my normal board (pointy nose) is 8'0" x 27.5 x 3.75" x 91L - just as a comparison.
This board is surprisingly stable when waiting out the back - probably due to the increased width at nose and tail. I would call it slightly more stable than my 8'0".
It is fair bit thicker than my 8'0" which makes it sit higher in the water and also makes it paddle very well both onto a wave and over dead sections (the video will probably show this).
The 7'0" is a lot looser yet you can still bury the rail easily - so both very tight snaps and drawn out carves are possible on this board.
I think the biggest difference is the planing speed - the 7'0" has instant acceleration on tap - just find the smallest bit of wall and the thing will just take off. This instant speed is also great for flow between turns - with minimal loss of speed after a turn, moving into the next one feels so fluid.
I was just borrowing this board - but now that I've experienced it - I will be ordering one as soon as I get back from holidays. That's a pretty good indication of how good it goes.
I agree with all you've said Casso. I've just received my new board which is a larger version at 7'8" x 281/4"x 4 5/16 and have surfed twice.
Can't believe how natural the board feels on the wave and the agility is surprising to say the least. Down the line speed is amazing with instant direction change, love it!!
I think the biggest difference is the planing speed - the 7'0" has instant acceleration on tap - just find the smallest bit of wall and the thing will just take off. This instant speed is also great for flow between turns - with minimal loss of speed after a turn, moving into the next one feels so fluid.
Yes, that's the benefits I found of going shorter, flatter & wider at the tips:
- planing speed, and acceleration (with a smaller length you get to planning at lower speeds, i.e. sooner)
- agility to actually reach "the smallest bit of wall"
- no need to "stall" in turns to sink the tail to avoid digging the nose in the littie room available in small waves, one can keep committed on the front foot to keep the speed
Would this be for the slower/crumblier beach breaks? I guess you'd be going for something a little longer/pin tail etc for bigger swells, like we had last weekend in Sydney. Or is this a one board does (almost) everything?
Would this be for the slower/crumblier beach breaks? I guess you'd be going for something a little longer/pin tail etc for bigger swells, like we had last weekend in Sydney. Or is this a one board does (almost) everything?
Yeah - I think the ultimate for this board would be a slightly fuller, rip bowly type wave up to about head high. Not so much an overhead wave board or sucky, down the line type board - although I did see the designer, Simon, take on 6 foot, low tide, barrelling Kirra and put on a very impressive show.
Would this be for the slower/crumblier beach breaks? I guess you'd be going for something a little longer/pin tail etc for bigger swells, like we had last weekend in Sydney. Or is this a one board does (almost) everything?
Yeah - I think the ultimate for this board would be a slightly fuller, rip bowly type wave up to about head high. Not so much an overhead wave board or sucky, down the line type board - although I did see the designer, Simon, take on 6 foot, low tide, barrelling Kirra and put on a very impressive show.
thank you to show the ultimate design, what's for i'm here. I 'm already designing my next one looking like your sweet board.
My question is : how do you reckon the max width position, i suppose it far back to the tail to make working this board as the needle nose type board. ( like Darby's in early 80's) What do you think about?
I have seen some thickness in the nose as a nose rider board ( beveled nose), would you think about thinner nose on your next?
And sure keep on going asymmetrical fins positions, what is the kind of main fin with Shapers DarcDrive trailer fin on your frontside , and what is the half quatro combo on your backside?
Cheers and thank you again to post that one
thank you to show the ultimate design, what's for i'm here. I 'm already designing my next one looking like your sweet board.
My question is : how do you reckon the max width position, i suppose it far back to the tail to make working this board as the needle nose type board. ( like Darby's in early 80's) What do you think about?
I have seen some thickness in the nose as a nose rider board ( beveled nose), would you think about thinner nose on your next?
And sure keep on going asymmetrical fins positions, what is the kind of main fin with Shapers DarcDrive trailer fin on your frontside , and what is the half quatro combo on your backside?
Cheers and thank you again to post that one
Sorry Kami, not sure about the position of the wide point or the thickness of the nose - but whatever it was, it seemed to work really well. The fins in this board were: Futures Gerry Lopez GL2 in the front, Shapers MGX I in the back with a Shapers DarcDrive trailer. Again, these worked very well as a combination on this board - plenty of drive when you need it but dishpan slides were posssible too.
Sure @rodriguez.
This board is 7'0" x 27.25" x 4.25 x 95L, my normal board (pointy nose) is 8'0" x 27.5 x 3.75" x 91L - just as a comparison.
This board is surprisingly stable when waiting out the back - probably due to the increased width at nose and tail. I would call it slightly more stable than my 8'0".
It is fair bit thicker than my 8'0" which makes it sit higher in the water and also makes it paddle very well both onto a wave and over dead sections (the video will probably show this).
The 7'0" is a lot looser yet you can still bury the rail easily - so both very tight snaps and drawn out carves are possible on this board.
I think the biggest difference is the planing speed - the 7'0" has instant acceleration on tap - just find the smallest bit of wall and the thing will just take off. This instant speed is also great for flow between turns - with minimal loss of speed after a turn, moving into the next one feels so fluid.
I was just borrowing this board - but now that I've experienced it - I will be ordering one as soon as I get back from holidays. That's a pretty good indication of how good it goes.
Thanks Casso,sorry I was slow in acknowledging your response to my querie,nose to the grindstone unfortunately.I was wondering what you think might be an appropriate width,thickness etc for 90-95kg rider. Thanks again, Rocket.
Thanks Casso,sorry I was slow in acknowledging your response to my querie,nose to the grindstone unfortunately.I was wondering what you think might be an appropriate width,thickness etc for 90-95kg rider. Thanks again, Rocket.
Not too sure Rocket but I'm 86kg and I'm going to go for 7'2" x 27" x 3.875". I think you will be doing OK if you go for the same dimensions as your normal performance SUP with a foot off the nose and about an inch narrower.
Thanks Casso,sorry I was slow in acknowledging your response to my querie,nose to the grindstone unfortunately.I was wondering what you think might be an appropriate width,thickness etc for 90-95kg rider. Thanks again, Rocket.
Not too sure Rocket but I'm 86kg and I'm going to go for 7'2" x 27" x 3.875". I think you will be doing OK if you go for the same dimensions as your normal performance SUP with a foot off the nose and about an inch narrower.
After reading and watching you, after testing my own custom short SUP with minimum buoyancy of 80 liters to my 75kg body plus 5kg board, the ratio of surface/volume distribution seems to me the solution to get stability while paddling, early take off and a playful board while surfing as well.
Thanks Casso,sorry I was slow in acknowledging your response to my querie,nose to the grindstone unfortunately.I was wondering what you think might be an appropriate width,thickness etc for 90-95kg rider. Thanks again, Rocket.
Not too sure Rocket but I'm 86kg and I'm going to go for 7'2" x 27" x 3.875". I think you will be doing OK if you go for the same dimensions as your normal performance SUP with a foot off the nose and about an inch narrower.
Thanks again for your thoughts Casso,I dont really have a go to sup at the moment,I have a few sub 9-0 ftrs of different widths and thicknesses,so I think your ideas will be of help with the final decision I come to. Cheers, Rocket.
Awesome Casso, stoked to see the Tomo concept used in a SUP. I am convinced this is the future of surf craft design - the speed and drive are incredible.
I have had my Tomo Vanguard now for 5 weeks and have had it in everything from 1-2 foot to 2 1/2 x OH and it smashes everything so would not be surprised to see the SUP equivalent shred the bigger stuff.
How's the way the nose just pulls out from pearling! Hope you are getting a lot of concave in it - my 5'9'' has nearly an inch of single concave running through most of the planning area. Here's a pic from last week:
Lookin sweet Andrew, wot u reckon, 7'4" x 26 for me be better than 7'0" x 27" ? I want drive. You know me, about same weight as you but tiny little more pizza?
Lookin sweet Andrew, wot u reckon, 7'4" x 26 for me be better than 7'0" x 27" ? I want drive. You know me, about same weight as you but tiny little more pizza?
Yup - sounds perfect Scotty.
Can I be honest? Share my opinion?
Yes I read the heading... Terrible waves and awesome board means heaps of fun. I agree! But...
I think the board looks ugly.
You did a lot of pumping of the board.
It seemed slow but your weight made up for the burying of the rail and throwing spray.
You fell off the back of most waves especially when you tried getting closer to the nose (which btw doesn't exist)
Short boarding with a paddle. It looked awkward.
Just my observations. Not a personal dig at you or your board.
Keep ripping