It was good.....maybe tomorrow again
It was good again, just a little bigger.....
Damm work!!!
glad you had a nice session mate. A big thanks again for your hospitality, I had a great time.
had some really fun surfs lately. nothing super special,but heaps of fun nonetheless, surfed with the farmer yesterday...he still has the moves...until he gets puffed out on the paddle....oh and sorry pup,i could not drop in on him,because that is the big mans forte he burnt me badly...his excuse was laughable scored some super nice walls at snapper today amongst the the ****ing carnage that is the place I love to hate
2ft crap at Cangguu - having breakie at Canteen instead. Hope u getting some
Hey Ted , if you get a chance could you take photo looking back to the land from the edge of the beach at Cangguu, and post it ?
I would be interested to see the development that more than likely has taken place over the years . last time i was there was 1981 , there was one hut on the beach front . Nice guy owned it and made jaffles and juices ect for us punters .
There was a very good right hander down to the right , from the cafe / hut set up . and a average sort of a peak straight out front, from memory . is that the same place you access now ?
alley. crowded as. car parking is off the dial. ended up going back home and walking around from lacey's lane.
when will it ease off.
paddled out- copped some on the head, paddled out a bit further- same thing again.
paddle out more and just sneaked over another couple .
sets were 5 ft. I had no idea it was that big.
got some good 'ns.
how ever my new board being light just got me smashed trying to pop the board over.
looks like for the first time in my life im going to have to learn how to do the eskimo rol- its not a natural thing to do for mel
alley. crowded as. car parking is off the dial. ended up going back home and walking around from lacey's lane.
when will it ease off.
paddled out- copped some on the head, paddled out a bit further- same thing again.
paddle out more and just sneaked over another couple .
sets were 5 ft. I had no idea it was that big.
got some good 'ns.
how ever my new board being light just got me smashed trying to pop the board over.
looks like for the first time in my life im going to have to learn how to do the eskimo rol- its not a natural thing to do for mel
c'mon mate,eskimo roll? put your foot on the tail and plant it....mind you my rails have finger indentations from me holding on when it all goes pear shaped
and yep there were some good sized ones coming through. surf report 3ft lol. the spit was weird with some A framed wedges going through in a strange spot. mind you I have not been there for a bit and the last swell might have changed things. if you got a good one though you were rewarded nicely with a **** paddle back.
the other place well it was bigger and thicker and fun if it went to plan..otherwise it was just a good thorough beating
some nice thick wedges today...a few hard paddles back home for some with only half a board
Ohhh oh well look on the bright side that is one left you have to sell now and easy justification for another one
Hey Ted , if you get a chance could you take photo looking back to the land from the edge of the beach at Cangguu, and post it ?
I would be interested to see the development that more than likely has taken place over the years . last time i was there was 1981 , there was one hut on the beach front . Nice guy owned it and made jaffles and juices ect for us punters .
There was a very good right hander down to the right , from the cafe / hut set up . and a average sort of a peak straight out front, from memory . is that the same place you access now ?
Classic. I first went there in 1995 and there were 3 from memory. Now days you would not even recognise the place. There is barely a rice paddy field left ! I had to come back to Sydney today to do some work for a week but will take a shot for you next week when I am back. You will not like what you see. Be warned
Tux may have one to share from his recent trip there.
Had a bunch of fun set waves on my 7'6" Woosley vquad at Granite.
Before going around there I spied Derek Hynd in the car park checking out another guys finless board. I've seen him out at Tea tree during a solid 4' plus day a few years back and at Nationals during a much smaller day where we had a chat about finless surfing.
The coincidental thing I was just talking to another stall holder at Eumundi about him yesterday and showed the guy the clip of Derek surfing Jbay.
He's a Brazzo hpsb guy so he was amazed.
So I had a chat and the board pictured is his old one from Glass love (Skip Frye glider?) that he routed out the fin box and put in a deep central concave with 2 outer concaves running down the rails to make it work finless.
As I was walking around to Granite and I'm on the path near the slanted jump off rock a set comes through and there's major hooting going on in the water and I look over and there's DH taking off on his board while sitting down and runs along the wall and then up to the lip and slides 45 degress back down and keeps going still sitting on his board.
If it was anyone else sitting on an 11'er and taking off on a set wave in front of a slew of people there'd be screams of terror and cursing and yelling.
Caught up with a guy called Mark who'd just bought himself a surfed once 7'6" McTavish tracker. He was loving it. We traded set waves and got to see him pull a lovely bottom turn on it from the ledge as we'd both paddled for it (I pulled back of course since I was on his outside).
For a while I thought I was in Byron or something what with all the hipsters clogging up the place.
I even found myself in Noosa longboards eyeing up a Tom Wegener short single fin...time for an intervention?
here's a shot of Teatree.
Nice story CF. Glad you got some good ones. Would love to see DH on his no find again. Incredible to watch
Nice story CF. Glad you got some good ones. Would love to see DH on his no find again. Incredible to watch
Hahahaha too funny.
doubt you'd find it INCREDIBLE when DH is spinning down the wave AT YOU
alley. crowded as. car parking is off the dial. ended up going back home and walking around from lacey's lane.
when will it ease off.
paddled out- copped some on the head, paddled out a bit further- same thing again.
paddle out more and just sneaked over another couple .
sets were 5 ft. I had no idea it was that big.
got some good 'ns.
how ever my new board being light just got me smashed trying to pop the board over.
looks like for the first time in my life im going to have to learn how to do the eskimo rol- its not a natural thing to do for mel
c'mon mate,eskimo roll? put your foot on the tail and plant it....mind you my rails have finger indentations from me holding on when it all goes pear shaped
and yep there were some good sized ones coming through. surf report 3ft lol. the spit was weird with some A framed wedges going through in a strange spot. mind you I have not been there for a bit and the last swell might have changed things. if you got a good one though you were rewarded nicely with a **** paddle back.
the other place well it was bigger and thicker and fun if it went to plan..otherwise it was just a good thorough beating
chrispy matie thats my usually go but i got hammered so many times today doing that. throw in a few full rotations for good measure too. boards is too light for that kick and pop over caper in bigger foam today i think.
i saw guys rolling and getting the better of it then me.
i also discovered doing duck dives on a mal has no future either if there is some push
Jealous. I can not even recall what a wave looks like. I am heading out now hoping to find a few 2fters to play on.....hoping being the word...it seems like ages since I last had a surf of note.
Quit you're whinging - we have all seen your recent adventures and hate you for it.
And FYI I haven't surfed for a week. People will be paying for it soon.
If its any consolation I am unlikely to surf the next 8 days
And FYI I haven't surfed for a week. People will be paying for it soon.
Yeah join the club almost a week here too
And FYI I haven't surfed for a week. People will be paying for it soon.
If its any consolation I am unlikely to surf the next 8 days
That's probably right too unfortunately. We get swell this Thursday and I guess it is 3-4 days before it hits you.
And while I can resent another's fortune, I am not that empty a soul that I relish another's pain. You have my sympathy, Ted, and I feel your pain. May your next surf be 8 foot, epic, and with enough people to feel safe, yet not crowded.
I reckon the swell from the West Oz cyclone should be hitting Bali by tomorrow. But it was already fairly sizey on the Bali East coast this morning. If I were Ted I'd be taking a look a few K's North of Keramaz or Sri Lanka (reef off Nusa Dua), tides high early morning. It will be absolutely cranking on the East Coast tomorrow...barstards
im with ya snake man people doing helicopters on long boards were called out in the late 90's /2000's,and this finless stuff is now "cool"the lads that ride alias yes ..old bashed up boards doing 360's on the face of the wave NO!
man them 360 things look good above the lip!
^^ yep keep out of the way of DH and his poo stance spinning 11' board…..DH ,has a ring to it.
I didn't mention the plagues of loggers still in contest mode out there legrope-less as well.
Watched for a little while at Nationals and there was the inevitable clang, clang, bang, bang of volan vs boulders.
Think Ted is back here in Oz for week with work stuff
Poor bugger, last I heard he was a free man for a few days
I was wrong though, surfs dropped over there. Its only about head high at Canngu & Kmaz
woke up this morn like the old footy days.
sore from head to toe from yesterdays shore break madness ,,sucked in a couple of big breaths and backed it up today.
so glad i did,,,frothing like grom ATM