Opposite here haha, much smaller & cleaner waist to chest. Didn't expect the swell to drop so much, but it improved as the tide dropped. Had to race home for the Clearwater Whalebone coz I'd only brought a couple of shortboards down. Been ages since I've been on the longboard & felt real rusty for the first couple. Was just me & a couple of 666'ers for about 90 mins & then the girls come out. I was thinking of heading in but the girls wanted to try my whalebone & I tryed their boards. So that was pretty fun swapping boards. I tried out a Modern Bluebird I think it was called & a board from Noosa called a Teatree. Ended up surfing 3 1/2 hours till the wind come in coz one chick kept saying she wanted one more lol...both girls now want to get a Clearwater Whalebone
Bigger today. Head high and clean. Got down there and paddled out and was out for about 20 minutes and had a few nice waves. I was paddling out prone through the break and paddled up to a wall of white water and tried to push over the top and it all went pear shaped from there. My paddle which was under me got flicked up and the blade came down hitting me in the front of the head resulting in a nasty gash about 3 inches long just above my left eybrow running up the front of my head. I came in and a guy in the car park had a first aid kit and wiped and dressed it and I went to the docs and they put this glue on it instead of stitches because it was a clean slice. Will be out of the water for a week but had worse over the years. Spewing though because there were some nice waves out there today. One of the local boys told me thats what I get for riding a 666. Might start wearing a helmet
Ouch ! Super glue works a treat for those cuts. Don't buy the medical grade stuff - the vet stuff is exactly the same and 25% of the price. You can also use the normal stuff as well. Some good info here for future reference. Been using it for about 5 years now and no dramas - yet !
www.realfirstaid.co.uk/superglue/
No need to stay out of the water too long helmets are useful protection for lots of undesirable actions. Get well soon smh !
A pic not far from you this morning on the first flight out
Cheers Ted . I'm going to start wearing the helmet I think. Nice pic. Far Kurnell !! Go the sharkies
super early one yesterday , had cleaned up heaps from the day before ..... been salivating over a set of banks around the corner and just waiting on some swell to tickle the fark out of them
It was pretty close to my left eye Mac so I was lucky. Problem is if the waves are good I'll be wanting to get out there. See how it goes. Plenty of lakes down there to paddle flat water and the flathead should be waking up and hungry.
On the Border and it was wicked too ..... went back out again for another helping
Asea a no show (work) so it was Pup gorge time ..... fark that was good
I'm just waiting to hear from the hosptail if Matts operation is on today after yesterdays cancellation,if its off I'm be on the point soon
I can see the swell wrapping around the points,its too full atm snapper is a big hole,could fire up later on the dropping tide,wish the hosptail would make the call so I know if I'm surfing or hanger around GCU