I just rigged up my new to me HyperGlide 2 8.0 today. Long story short - the two middle cams (below and above the boom) are a PITA. My first go with downhaul about 1.5cm from max (leech floppy about halfway on the top panel) and outhaul on, the cams refused to come around. Yes, you can foil with an inside out sail.
I took the spacer out from both cams and downhauled until the leech was way floppy most of the way down and winds were only 7-10 so not what I was needing) and cams would pop with some persuading but I'm not seeing this as an easy thing to do while jibing in the air.
Using Severne Apex mast. The battens have been backed off until wrinkles start to show. There's a bit of slack in the luff sleeve. Anything else I should try? Is there a top/bottom to the cams (one end says Severne and the other SDM, something). This evening at home, I've pulled the spacers from the top and bottom cam, too, although they came around fine.
The sail is wicked fast but let's say it kind of loses some speed in the turns. 
I've been sailing/foiling with cams in my bigger sails for some time but those have been freerace sails with tighter sleeves.
Good Luck. Send a note to Severne as a last resort.
www.severnesails.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Severne-Cam-Rigging-Guide-HypgerGlide.pdf
Select to expand quoteVCRWoody said..
Good Luck. Send a note to Severne as a last resort.
www.severnesails.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Severne-Cam-Rigging-Guide-HypgerGlide.pdf
Thanks - had already seen that but I appreciate it all the same. I'm going to be seeing a pretty knowledgeable regional dealer soon so that may help. Since I didn't buy it from him, didn't want to be a bother before then.
So the HG2 sounds like the HG1 8.0m that I have? Similar rotation issues, to counter the problem I find its best to run a bit more downhaul than preferred. As a freerider that's not too inconvenient. Also use a variable outhaul, it tends to rotate more easily with outhaul released a bit.
Like you have correct mast, and spacers removed etc. I wonder if this sail is meant as a high wind option for racers - so needs to have that tension in the cams for stability? Can't complain about that stability bit, its a wonderful sail powered up on the wind.
Happy foiling 
Do the opposite, more tension on the batten. Reason being when you over tension a batten it wants to bend in an S shape. If you are just shy of this as soon as you get pressure on the opposite side the S will initiate and pop the Cam and rest of the batten with ease. Batten tension does not increase Cam pressure on mast. Also try an extra spacer in the cams that do rotate, this may releive a little pressure off the ones that dont by changing the mast bend fractionally.
Hope this works for you.
The only sail out of the estimated 30 - 40 that I have owned that has rotated without some sticking or a stall after a non planning gybe is my 2015 Loft Switchblade 6.8. Does it make sailing more enjoyable - definitely.
Even after a planing gybe there is usually some minor sticking in cammed sails.
25 years ago i changed all the 7 battens of my 5.8m Stuart Bell race sail to cutdown battens from a old Tushingham 8.1m race sail.
When I cut them down to identical length I wanted to decrease the amount of camber in the SB sail so i chopped the bendy part of the battens off from the Tushingham sail.
My motivation being to make the sail as flat as possible for improved control in strong winds.
To my surprise the cam rotation was almost faultless and I could hold the sail in another 5 knots of wind at least.
With much,much less camber in the luff area it makes perfect sense the rotation is going to be vastly improved.
Flatter sails rotate better by far.
My 8m Hyperglide weighs only 4.9 kg so i am willing to put up with its average rotation. I use a 490 Severne mast when its supposed to be rigged on a 460.
The sail is fast when the wind is marginal to moderate but is a nightmare when the wind picks up.
Overall i am very happy with it.
Have you got the second revision of the HG2 (the HG2.1 lets call it) with the XL cams as on the Mach X series of sails or the first revision with the standard style cams? They obviously ultimately found it was a bit of an issue and addressed in it later revisions.
They also shipped the first ones with an RDM cam (the red one) that was cut down for the top cam. It's an RDM cam because the Apex mast is quite small in diameter at that position and the standard black cams are A) too long, b) Slip of the mast easily. I actually 3D printed a custom cam for the top one on both my HG2's....but if you have the Red SDM cam in the top position you should be ok.
I run no spacers in any of my cams except the bottom one, which has one thin spacer, all the rest have just the metal plate. Not sure about the top cam if you're running the supplied cut down red SDM cam as I said, I don't run that, it may need a few spacers....that cam is not an issue anyway rotation wise.
Batten tension MASSIVELY effects rotation on the HG2, it does not work as described by Swindy. If you crank the batten tension, even to take out the wrinkles the sail will rotate very poorly. Look at any of the pictures from the Aus nationals, all the NZ guys (one of the best fleets in the world) all have pretty low batten tension. Wind it quite a way off, you will have a few vertical wrinkles near the front of the pocket and try it, you'll probably find it rotates way better. It does not seem to effect performance even though it does not look 'perfect'.
Too much downhaul also makes things worse, as does too little. They are quite a tight leach compared to a slalom sail, particularly in the mid section, so you don't want the leech loose all the way down as on a slalom sail.
As said above too much outhaul also makes the rotation worse, gybing downwind you generally have it off though so this isn't usually an issue.
The biggest thing is the batten tension, that's what myself and the guys I sail with found makes the biggest difference. It won't rotate anywhere near as nice as a freerace cam sail, never will it's just how they are. The shape with such a 'knuckle' forward design makes it a very hard job for the cam to pop side to side as it has a big angle change to go through. I also have the Mach1 slalom sails and they rotate very very easily in comparison. That said once you find the right setting and get used to giving it a good pop they are ok, I don't have an issue popping the rig even in light 6-8kt conditions.
Interesting. I have exact same set up and its certainly a tight sail that needs that big shock pull to get rotation, but it does rotate.
I think there's something to what swindy said. The hg2 with its more curved luff ends up curving the mast to the extent that maybe theres less than enough tension on the middle camber inducers to make it rotate. I reckon it needs some more cam spacers, not less.
The HG2 is a very stiff profile, which is one of the reasons it is so stable over such a big wind range. If you leave all the spacers on you can feel how much pressure the cams have against the mast, it's huge. Try it by all means try it but it's counter intuitive in my opinion.
Because it has such short cams (Revision 1 anyway) and such a forward draft, long pocket the cam angle is very large, relative to the longitudinal boom axis, compared to most sails. This means to pop sides it has to effectively stretch the pocket a huge amount; due to the fact you trim it to set nicely when the cam is fully on one side...obviously. This is why reducing the batten tension works, you're allowing easier stretch of the luff/batten pocket in the side to side pop....and also why adding more spacers won't work, in my opinion.
They obviously finally realised this is a problem...or finally came up with a solution, hence Rev2.1 of the sail. With the longer XL cams the cam angle is way lower, hence the batten pocket has to stretch much less to pop side to side. The inside vertical end batten pocket seam is also way different, it's at least 40mm further away from the mast (due to the long cams obviously).
my 9 also came with a modified (shortened) red RDM cam, however it is at the batten immediately above the boom and not at the top like Chris's. This cam did not work for me, i am using a 520, not a severne.
i replaced the red cam with a SDM to match the others and shortened/ground that cam 3mm to match the modified RDM cam supplied and take some pressure off the cam ; the one above the boom.
it rotates well. (except in the air with the outhaul cranked, fine with less outhaul, an aggressive pump or two normally works)
i now use less batten tension too.
also keep an eye on the stainless pins that secure the rollers, mine pushed off on a couple of the cams, i removed the rollers and knurled the pins with vice grips then glued them and filled the holes.
None of the foilracing sails rotate particularly well, has to do with the extreme forward pulled draft position. On a slalomsail the draft is further back, so the curve of the sail near the mast is less extreme. For a foil sail that curve is so big the cambers need to cross an enormous "deadpoint" if you get what I mean.
I ride the Phantoms so no HG specific advice, my rotation can be bad too. But with a little more downhaul its very doable (could be sail specific ofcourse!). Jibing in the air pretty much never is a problem, since there is power enough to rotate then. I have most trouble slogging below 8 knots. (Either 10 or 9 is the same)
I had quite a few sessions with Kiran Badloe (Dutch olympic candidate and likely to be the fastest Severne rider around currently in light winds) over the summer, and I didnt see any wrinkles in his sails. He was using custom slimmer diameter slake masts back then though and had all his cams fully spacered up.
What does fully spacered up mean though? 1,2,3 , thick, thin, combo? Standard they ship with one thin spacer....
Not to beat a dead horse but i'm only relaying my experiences and I go pretty in depth into tuning these rigs, leave almost no stone un-turned, hence the custom cams.
Here's a pic of Badloe's coach, you can see exactly what i'm talking about, this is probably on the extreme end of the 'low batten tension scale'.
Also big ups for their nationals this weekend
Thanks everyone. I'll give the advice a go. I wasn't expecting wave sail rotation - having sailed on cammed sails for ages - but I was stunned that it was so difficult. fwiw, it appears that I have the ver. 1 black cams (it is an HG2 not 1).
Again, I appreciate all the input - this is an amazing community.
Other than OP saying he/she is using an Apex mast, nobody else has mentioned the mast as a HUGE factor in sail rotation. Perhaps the Apex is the wrong mast?
If the bend curve is not right, a cambered sail will not rotate like it is supposed to.
Select to expand quotesegler said..
Other than OP saying he/she is using an Apex mast, nobody else has mentioned the mast as a HUGE factor in sail rotation. Perhaps the Apex is the wrong mast?
If the bend curve is not right, a cambered sail will not rotate like it is supposed to.
Apex is the severne mast. Theres the apex pro which is the 100%, probably the specifically recommended mast. But the apex (90%) should also work.
Select to expand quoteCJW said..
What does fully spacered up mean though? 1,2,3 , thick, thin, combo? Standard they ship with one thin spacer....
Not to beat a dead horse but i'm only relaying my experiences and I go pretty in depth into tuning these rigs, leave almost no stone un-turned, hence the custom cams.
Here's a pic of Badloe's coach, you can see exactly what i'm talking about, this is probably on the extreme end of the 'low batten tension scale'.
Also big ups for their nationals this weekend
batten tension and cam spacers are really targeting two different areas. Batten tension changes skin tension in the main area of the sail, and cam spacers increase tension in the skin of the luff pocket and the bend of the batten section inside the pocket. So its entirely possible to have lots of spacers in there and still have a "loose" sail so to speak.
Select to expand quoteSubsonic said..segler said..
Other than OP saying he/she is using an Apex mast, nobody else has mentioned the mast as a HUGE factor in sail rotation. Perhaps the Apex is the wrong mast?
If the bend curve is not right, a cambered sail will not rotate like it is supposed to.
Apex is the severne mast. Theres the apex pro which is the 100%, probably the specifically recommended mast. But the apex (90%) should also work.
Confirmed: Apex Pro being used. Severne only specifies a Severne 490 so working within their specs either way.
btw, iirc, in the old Laser days, putting enough cunningham (downhaul) created vertical wrinkles called "speed wrinkles". Not that the wrinkles made the sail faster but did indicate an overall faster setup.
Again, thanks for passing along all thoughts, experience and knowledge.
My HG2.1 8.0 m sail would not look right and would not rotate on any of my five different 490 CC masts until I got an Apex mast. Apex masts until 2020 were hard top, hard bottom, soft middle masts. I heard form a Severne rider that for 2020 they went to "standard" CC specs. Also Red Apex masts are slightly thinner than the Blue version. So Blue Apex creates more cam pressure.
Another thing to look at is the boom length. The same PWA rider adjusted my boom so that there is about 5 cm (2") of space between the clew and the sail to allow the batten to straighten more during the switch. Yeah, and he DID tighten the battens
