Anyone built a box trailer rack - multiple boards?

Hi,
I'm just after some advice on the best way to build a rack for carrying about 5 boards on a box trailer (+ masts, booms etc).
what systems have people used. Are just horizontal racks the way to go?
I thought vertical racks might be more economical in terms of space, but then thought having boards on their rails might not be the best given its probably a rough ride on a box trailer.

Hadn't given much thought to angled racking as the trailers easiest fixing points are the 4 corners.

Appreciate any any advice or pics/drawings of what works well.

Thanks.

Depends on the board width. Horizontal works with mid width boards, vertical will give you more room with wide beginner boards , 30 deg will give you less trailer width. Look at horizontal stacking and pair 1 wide board with 1 narrow board for a better fit.

^^^^ +1

and don't make the mistake of making a box that overhangs the rear too much. Length behind rear axle increased = sway and maybe losing it in the highway. One I made was right on the limit.... not fun

If you don't want to lock it all away, and want the $30 option: 6m of 25x25 steel makes a couple of bars to sit up say 500mm above the trailer like roof racks on the trailer. Then you get all your sails n stuff in the bottom and 3 boards on the bars.

Ballast said: “Also, for internal racking. If you’re not a welder, like me, the 25mm box section aluminium with the black plastic push in joints makes a strong light weight rack”.

I tried this on my last build and most of them broke within 12 months, because the plastic is not designed to withstand vertical movement, such as that in a van or trailer as it goes along a road.

To overcome the problem I then used tri-corner braces at every joint and this (so far) solved the problem. However, the downside is the cost: the cost of the plastic inserts plus the cost of the tri-corner braces. In my view, it became uneconomical and it is also time-consuming to install.

Also, although I’m a big fan of aluminium square tube, it’s very expensive.

In passing, you might try using a 250mmm gap between the bottom of the board and the bottom of the cross bar above the board deck. I found this is acceptable on “normal” thickness boards equipped with foot straps.

Hope this helps.

Don't forget to add in the diameter of a pool noodle (rail padding) to your 250mm gap.

Surprised you had so many breakages WindmanV. Have not had one and the trailer is used pretty much every weekend, including a number of longer trips on holidays. Perhaps it is to do with width and flex. Mine is 950 at its widest and has padding on each bar. I would be interested to know how others have gone with it. Seemed fairly cost effective and an easy to build to me.

250mm gap worked for me too.

For fitting bars without welding

20mm square section, cut the ends at 45º
Using hex head self drill metal screws to fix in place you can go past the section just trimmed and screw through a single side to lock the cross member to the upright.

It's easier doing this before you put the tin on

Hello, Ballast,

Sharing experiences is what this forum is all about.

I got the idea of using the plastic inserts after seeing a friend’s trailer using the insert on the cross bars. Thought it was OK, so went ahead. Whilst building the racking etc. for the van, my friend’s cross pieces failed. His trailer width was a full 4 feet.

My van was built with 5 x shelves and a maximum width of 85cm, with crosspieces in the middle of the shelf to support the load. As stated, they began to fail so I had to remove all the racking and re-build using the inserts AND the tri-corner braces. I wouldn’t use the inserts again.

I built a roof box for sails & booms. 3 booms, 5 large sails, 4 masts.

could mount a board on top. Also I can turn it on its side so a formula board can fit on racks.