Overall I still really like the Sailworks quiktune harness lines, though for salt water needed to replace the rope because it got hard, replaced with Amsteel 1/2" rope. And the Amsteel may be important in the next bit. The problem for me was always trying to shorten or lengthen the line while unhooked and standing on the board in waves using one hand (other hand was holding the boom), I came to the conclusion it just was not possible. But then I thought of flipping the pulley/cleat over so the V-jam cleat was facing me instead of facing away on the backside of the pulley which is the stock orientation. Tried it out today in gusty conditions and it was relatively easy to adjust the line and set it in the V-jam cleat with one hand with the V-jam cleat facing me. Now the Amsteel line may have helped because it is rather squishy so I could push it into the V-jam cleat with my thumb and then pull down on the line/tube to set it. Now I did cut about 2" off of the tube, so I could shorten the lines even more than stock, that shorter length helps when foiling in 13+ knots to keep tension on the hook instead of my arms. Flipping the cleat is easy, just undo two screws, and after over a year always in salt water they came right out with no corrosion, same for the rest of the cleat. Have not tried adjusting the lines while hooked in with the flipped cleat, but with the stock orientation for the cleat in waves and gusty conditions that was tricky if I did not practice it regularly.
Just remember to put locktite on the screws! Phil at SailWorks mentioned that, and that the standard orientation was for adjusting in flight, that is not something I have tried.
I wonder how these would compare with the race lines that a lot of people are running now: harnessline.com/products/long-adjustable-duo-harness-lines/
I think I may have adjusted them in flight? I am not sure, sometimes I adjust and don't think much about it. Definitely have tweaked outhaul while flying, not sure about harness line length.
Select to expand quoteaeroegnr said..
I wonder how these would compare with the race lines that a lot of people are running now: harnessline.com/products/long-adjustable-duo-harness-lines/
I think I may have adjusted them in flight? I am not sure, sometimes I adjust and don't think much about it. Definitely have tweaked outhaul while flying, not sure about harness line length.
I have looked at ones similar to those with the forward facing Clamcleat Chinook I think (have those Clamcleats on my outhaul), right now I only adjust harness lines on the water, same for outhaul, so that is why I was glad to find the Quiktunes lines can be adjusted easily on the water unhooked. The AFS W95 foil has an 88 cm fuselage from tip to tail but from wing leading edge to stab. trailing edge it is shorter, so not as stable as what you are on.
I also trimmed off ~2" of the tube when I replaced the line, and beveled the end of the tube so it would slide into the cleat, turns out that was good because I now shorten the lines by pulling the line until the tube goes into the cleat, and when I set the line in the V- jam cleat the tube comes out until it is about flush with the outside of the cleat. That make the lines 23.5" long, perfect for foiling on a slalom board like the Goya Bolt 135 that is 80 cm wide and has a relatively narrow tail compared to a foil specific board. The 23.5" harness lines allow me to foil cross wind while handling gusts by simply changing my lean angle (lean out in gust) without having to use my arms to pull the sail windward.
Select to expand quoteSandman1221 said..
I also trimmed off ~2" of the tube when I replaced the line, and beveled the end of the tube so it would slide into the cleat, turns out that was good because I now shorten the lines by pulling the line until the tube goes into the cleat, and when I set the line in the V- jam cleat the tube comes out until it is about flush with the outside of the cleat. That make the lines 23.5" long, perfect for foiling on a slalom board like the Goya Bolt 135 that is 80 cm wide and has a relatively narrow tail compared to a foil specific board. The 23.5" harness lines allow me to foil cross wind while handling gusts by simply changing my lean angle (lean out in gust) without having to use my arms to pull the sail windward.
The Chinook Race lines do not use a Clamcleat. They have their own custom cast cleat that is designed to be adjusted while hooked in.
...Btw .... you should never be using your arms to sheet - even with 32" lines.
Select to expand quotegorgesailor said..Sandman1221 said..
I also trimmed off ~2" of the tube when I replaced the line, and beveled the end of the tube so it would slide into the cleat, turns out that was good because I now shorten the lines by pulling the line until the tube goes into the cleat, and when I set the line in the V- jam cleat the tube comes out until it is about flush with the outside of the cleat. That make the lines 23.5" long, perfect for foiling on a slalom board like the Goya Bolt 135 that is 80 cm wide and has a relatively narrow tail compared to a foil specific board. The 23.5" harness lines allow me to foil cross wind while handling gusts by simply changing my lean angle (lean out in gust) without having to use my arms to pull the sail windward.
The Chinook Race lines do not use a Clamcleat. They have their own custom cast cleat that is designed to be adjusted while hooked in.
...Btw .... you should never be using your arms to sheet - even with 32" lines.
Yeah, but come on the cleat on the Chinook Race line looks just like a Clamcleat! And if I unhook in-flight, when I get hit with really ragged gusts, then I have to use arms to sheet in/out!, anyone would! But if my lines are long because I am spending a lot of time slogging and waiting for a gust, then when I get hit with a gust and get up the lines will be too long, so again use my arms to sheet sail in/out as needed! Never say never, box yourself into the impossible
Select to expand quoteSandman1221 said..gorgesailor said..Sandman1221 said..
I also trimmed off ~2" of the tube when I replaced the line, and beveled the end of the tube so it would slide into the cleat, turns out that was good because I now shorten the lines by pulling the line until the tube goes into the cleat, and when I set the line in the V- jam cleat the tube comes out until it is about flush with the outside of the cleat. That make the lines 23.5" long, perfect for foiling on a slalom board like the Goya Bolt 135 that is 80 cm wide and has a relatively narrow tail compared to a foil specific board. The 23.5" harness lines allow me to foil cross wind while handling gusts by simply changing my lean angle (lean out in gust) without having to use my arms to pull the sail windward.
The Chinook Race lines do not use a Clamcleat. They have their own custom cast cleat that is designed to be adjusted while hooked in.
...Btw .... you should never be using your arms to sheet - even with 32" lines.
Yeah, but come on the cleat on the Chinook Race line looks just like a Clamcleat! And if I unhook in-flight, when I get hit with really ragged gusts, then I have to use arms to sheet in/out!, anyone would! But if my lines are long because I am spending a lot of time slogging and waiting for a gust, then when I get hit with a gust and get up the lines will be too long, so again use my arms to sheet sail in/out as needed! Never say never, box yourself into the impossible
Why would you unhook in-flight?.. The lines are designed to adjust while hooked in & you use the lines & your body to sheet in & out whether lines are short or long.
Select to expand quotegorgesailor said..Sandman1221 said..gorgesailor said..Sandman1221 said..
I also trimmed off ~2" of the tube when I replaced the line, and beveled the end of the tube so it would slide into the cleat, turns out that was good because I now shorten the lines by pulling the line until the tube goes into the cleat, and when I set the line in the V- jam cleat the tube comes out until it is about flush with the outside of the cleat. That make the lines 23.5" long, perfect for foiling on a slalom board like the Goya Bolt 135 that is 80 cm wide and has a relatively narrow tail compared to a foil specific board. The 23.5" harness lines allow me to foil cross wind while handling gusts by simply changing my lean angle (lean out in gust) without having to use my arms to pull the sail windward.
The Chinook Race lines do not use a Clamcleat. They have their own custom cast cleat that is designed to be adjusted while hooked in.
...Btw .... you should never be using your arms to sheet - even with 32" lines.
Yeah, but come on the cleat on the Chinook Race line looks just like a Clamcleat! And if I unhook in-flight, when I get hit with really ragged gusts, then I have to use arms to sheet in/out!, anyone would! But if my lines are long because I am spending a lot of time slogging and waiting for a gust, then when I get hit with a gust and get up the lines will be too long, so again use my arms to sheet sail in/out as needed! Never say never, box yourself into the impossible
Why would you unhook in-flight?.. The lines are designed to adjust while hooked in & you use the lines & your body to sheet in & out whether lines are short or long.
Ah, I unhook in-flight because the gusts can get so strong that they will lift you up out of the water 3'-4' so you and the kit are parallel with the water like as if the plane of the water changed by 90 degrees, or it can slap you right over into the water in an instant. Gotta be careful with short lines! And then when the gust passes I hook back in in-flight, and the swinging lines help to hook back in.
Adjusted the lines with the V-jam cleated facing me while hooked in, works much better in that orientation IMO, now I was on the water, versus in-flght, but adjustment was easy and I felt balanced while doing it and can see that the rope is locked n the cleat.
+1 for V-cleat. For foiling I purchased two different DaKine adjustable harness lines. I think one was designed to adjust and leave once set. Or I'm just lacking when it comes to adjusting them on the fly while hooked in. The V-cleat models with a small T shaped handle at the working end is easy to release and lock while flying on the foil. Only negative is the Comp Adjustables doubling in price vs. a couple season ago. Would consider the Sailworks Quiktunes at $56usd(MSRP). Same concept. Different type of V-cleat. Thanks for the long term use review.
Amsteel not too slippery for the cleat? I use the AS to make soft shackles for use on the sailboat. Preventive replacement every 3-4 season. Old ones reused for low load, not critical applications. DIY whoopie slings for hanging hammock and tarp in the uber ultra lite camping days. So far, haven't experienced a failure. Really high strength to weight and no real stretch. Plus UV resistant.
Select to expand quoteOldGuy3 said..
Amsteel not too slippery for the cleat? I use the AS to make soft shackles for use on the sailboat. Preventive replacement every 3-4 season. Old ones reused for low load, not critical applications. DIY whoopie slings for hanging hammock and tarp in the uber ultra lite camping days. So far, haven't experienced a failure. Really high strength to weight and no real stretch. Plus UV resistant.
OldGuy you are welcome, and Amsteel 1/2" line squishes easily into cleat and locks in tight first time every time with the V-jam cleat facing me, but once set with weight on the harness line the line does settle to about 1/2" longer. With the cleat in the stock orientation could not always get line to set first time due to having to lift line up behind cleat, kind of awkward for me.
One issue with swinging lines is it is harder to use my back hand thumb to flip the line out of the hook, when it does not do it naturally (learned thumb flip from Guy Cribb). But then what I discovered as I shortened my lines is that if the end of the tube (beveled my tube ends) is inside the V-jam cleat when set, it makes the line stiffer and then I can easily use my thumb to flip line out of hook when needed, which is not often but usually when the wind drops suddenly and want to unhook as board comes off the foil, see picture. Yes that is a short line, but works great for my kit when foiling, to keep sail pressure in hook and not on arms.
The Dakine Comp adjustable I think have the v-cleat facing the sail. Gear is in winter storage. Just old memory. Not sure if correct. But seem to remember it was easier to disengage than lock by just pulling the T-handle to you. To lock you needed to put a little bit of angle towards the sail. Or maybe the reverse if the the v-cleat was facing towards you. Based on your image the Quicktune cleat faces parallel to the sail?
Took me awhile to figure out which hand I prefer on the adjustable side. I think I ended up positioning the adjustment side towards the boom head. Comfort issue and considering fooling around with an adjustable outhaul on the foiling boom. Me, I would probably grab the adjustable outhaul line thinking it's the harness line if on the same side:).
Interesting OldGuy, never considered putting cleat on mast side, and yes when hooked in and slogging my Quicktune cleat is parallel to sail and facing hook.
