You've inspired me Southace (along with the 3c temp on the boat on Sunday night), I've ordered one! Did you buy extra ducting, if so from where? I'm yet to properly map out my install, but I'll likely need three outlets and upwards of 7 meters of ducting. There are plenty of options out of China, but they all have delivery times in the multiple weeks.
Ebay, ducting it was from a caravan shop I think, I ordered 3 meters. I only have one duct coming from the lazzerete under the quarter cabin bunk and jetting directly out of that cabin into the main saloon.
I would suggest buy the unit first . Set it up and dummy run it with 3 meters of duct first. I just layed the duct across the bunk for the first couple of nights before I planed to start cutting 82 mm holes in bulkheads.
fuel tank in engine room with fuel pump. (Fuel pump is most noise you will hear). I have brought a fuel transfer pump to Decan direct from my main fuel tank line into the heater Day tank.
S/S exuast hose and transom skin fitting ordered from Tasmania supplier.
I have run mine for 100 hrs since install. Using 10 litres per 45 hour runs. Last night was min. 2.5 C on deck cabin remained at 20C through out the night.
Best item I ever brought for a boat. !
enjoy!
Yeah I hear what you're saying about cutting holes in bulkheads, I want to be absolutely certain too. So good advice there! I'll look at finding the right mounting location for the heater first, get it mounted and working and plan the rest from there. I'm leaning towards using the bunnings 100mm ducting from the unit through to the salon. Then I'll reduce to 75mm through to the vee berth.
yes I'll order the skin fitting from dieselheat in Tas too.
My fuel tank is under the galley sink and has a spare pick up on it. So I'll probably mount the fuel pump in there somewhere and suspend + sound insulate it.
what did you end up doing with the muffler?
No muffler better strait out the transom. Trust me put the fuel pump in a fully soundproof locker! The 75 mm is standard on the unit I would try to avoid the Bunnings stuff but may be ok. I fired my unit up while motoring this arvo this is what you will expect to see at start up. Don't panic it does that at some starts.
Where are you sourcing your ducting Lazzz? I see buntings has the 100mm semi flexible aluminum stuff. Maybe that's the way I should go as it's relatively cheap, easily available and will aid airflow down the length of the boat.
I ended up with this from eBay: www.ebay.com.au/itm/HyFlo-4-Inch-100mm-Double-Walled-Hydroponics-Ducting-Ventilation-Extraction/262733553814?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Haven't actually seen the Bunnings stuff but probably OK.
I've only had it going once at full bore but seems OK - it did't melt!!
Where are you sourcing your ducting Lazzz? I see buntings has the 100mm semi flexible aluminum stuff. Maybe that's the way I should go as it's relatively cheap, easily available and will aid airflow down the length of the boat.
I ended up with this from eBay: www.ebay.com.au/itm/HyFlo-4-Inch-100mm-Double-Walled-Hydroponics-Ducting-Ventilation-Extraction/262733553814?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Haven't actually seen the Bunnings stuff but probably OK.
I've only had it going once at full bore but seems OK - it did't melt!!
Gee my 3 meters cost me $170 bucks. No wonder breaking bad is so popular!
Good one Lazzz, I'll check that out. I had a look and feel of the Bunnings stuff today. I think it's good and strong enough, a half meter length expands to 3 meters, I put a 90 degree bend into it easily and the inside radius of the bend was around 70mm. I'll wrap insulate it with something during the installation.
Very smooth interior wall too, so I guess that helps airflow.
$29 for 3 meters: www.bunnings.com.au/pacific-air-3m-x-100mm-semi-rigid-duct_p4700420
Do you guys find that there's much sound transfer along the heating air ducting. I found this product off that link you supplied Lazz.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hydroponics-Acoustic-Ducting-4-5-6-8-10-12-Inch-5M-Grow-Tent-Duct-Heat-Cool/282742019034?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Dc5d9b93ec02f4a1f9684035ce22b6073%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D262733553814%26itm%3D282742019034%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWeb&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Do you guys find that there's much sound transfer along the heating air ducting. I found this product off that link you supplied Lazz.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hydroponics-Acoustic-Ducting-4-5-6-8-10-12-Inch-5M-Grow-Tent-Duct-Heat-Cool/282742019034?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Dc5d9b93ec02f4a1f9684035ce22b6073%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D262733553814%26itm%3D282742019034%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWeb&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Fuel pump is the worst, Like a heart beat.
Do you guys find that there's much sound transfer along the heating air ducting. I found this product off that link you supplied Lazz.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hydroponics-Acoustic-Ducting-4-5-6-8-10-12-Inch-5M-Grow-Tent-Duct-Heat-Cool/282742019034?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Dc5d9b93ec02f4a1f9684035ce22b6073%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D262733553814%26itm%3D282742019034%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWeb&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
I've found no sound transfer & I don't really hear much at all.
My heater, pump & tank are hidden away at the transom (short exhaust run) with about 2.5 mts of 100mm duct to a straight run of 90mm PVC pipe and then the first Y piece with a 1 mtr run and a 2.5 mtr run to the vents.
Fuel transfer pump fittted yesterday. Will transfer 5litres per minute to fill the heater 10litre tank from my main 300litre tank. Can also fill Jerry cans if I come across some twit that's run out of diesel. It's so much easier set up like this although I do need to remember to through jerrys into the main tank!
Good one! Still toasty?
Regarding the beating heart fuel pump, I see that some recommend hanging them in a rubber webbing, even rigging up something woven up with occy rubber would work I guess, the intention is to completely isolate it from transferring vibration/sound to the hull. That along with some sound insulation should help. Also I saw that running the hard plastic nylon fuel hose inside a soft pipe insulation cover, so that no part of it touches anything hard, helps a lot too. I'm going to do all these, I don't want it noisy.
My unit arrived in the post today and I have the exhaust skin fitting already. Hopefully I'll get a chance this week to go and pull things apart on the boat to see where it'll best fit.
Good one! Still toasty?
Regarding the beating heart fuel pump, I see that some recommend hanging them in a rubber webbing, even rigging up something woven up with occy rubber would work I guess, the intention is to completely isolate it from transferring vibration/sound to the hull. That along with some sound insulation should help. Also I saw that running the hard plastic nylon fuel hose inside a soft pipe insulation cover, so that no part of it touches anything hard, helps a lot too. I'm going to do all these, I don't want it noisy.
My unit arrived in the post today and I have the exhaust skin fitting already. Hopefully I'll get a chance this week to go and pull things apart on the boat to see where it'll best fit.
Yes I'm toastie but threw the circuit breaker trying to refuel and start the heater at the same time. God it smoked up more than a indgionus smoking party once I Reset! I have run twin core 4mm tinned wire to aft cabin with positive / negative studs with the heater and fuel transfer pump on it , my circuit breakers are 30 amp so must of got there!
anyway she's running like trooper again since that smelly episode. I also have moved my D.V.k gas monitor from the Bilgie to the cabin where the hot air comes out. Very important.
God it smoked up more than a indgionus smoking party once I Reset!
I reckon it's unburned diesel laying in the low spot of your exhaust pipe - that's why you need a drain coil at the low point!!
I made my own out of copper pipe.
Nice job on the transfer pump - I just used an electric fuel pump off eBay!!
My unit arrived in the post today and I have the exhaust skin fitting already. Hopefully I'll get a chance this week to go and pull things apart on the boat to see where it'll best fit.
Have fun 2bish!!! :)
Yikes! The heaters pull about 10 amps on start up I believe. What does your fuel transfer pump draw?
The DVK only monitors lpg gas doesn't it? what are you using to monitor carbon monoxide?
God it smoked up more than a indgionus smoking party once I Reset!
I reckon it's unburned diesel laying in the low spot of your exhaust pipe - that's why you need a drain coil at the low point!!
I made my own out of copper pipe.
Nice job on the transfer pump - I just used an electric fuel pump off eBay!!
My unit arrived in the post today and I have the exhaust skin fitting already. Hopefully I'll get a chance this week to go and pull things apart on the boat to see where it'll best fit.
Have fun 2bish!!! :)
Your right about the unburnt diesel but na it was just the fact I blew the circuit breaker while start up. The drain is I thought just for condensation ? I don't care will take a life time to eat through the S/S exshust hose. Might stick a rubber bung in the outllet when not in use.
Yikes! The heaters pull about 10 amps on start up I believe. What does your fuel transfer pump draw?
The DVK only monitors lpg gas doesn't it? what are you using to monitor carbon monoxide?
My DVk does it all if I spray any pressure pack near the pick up the alarm goes off.
Yikes! The heaters pull about 10 amps on start up I believe. What does your fuel transfer pump draw?
The DVK only monitors lpg gas doesn't it? what are you using to monitor carbon monoxide?
Yes 10 amps on start up for about a minute. Goes through all the settings blows high then low eventually back to below 2 amps. My fuel transfer pump yes must use 10 amps maybe more but it's just for a minute Or so.
Yikes! The heaters pull about 10 amps on start up I believe. What does your fuel transfer pump draw?
The DVK only monitors lpg gas doesn't it? what are you using to monitor carbon monoxide?
You got me thinking there! Looks like a trip to Bunnings tomorrow!
www.bunnings.com.au/family-first-carbon-monoxide-alarm_p4210604
what are you using to monitor carbon monoxide?
I have one from Bunnings as well.
I like the look of this one, has high sensitivity and an escalating scale of warnings based both on ppm and exposure time. Bit more expensive but!
www.amazon.com.au/KN-COU-B-Ultra-Sensitive-Battery-Powered-Monoxide/dp/B00IO64NXC/ref=asc_df_B00IO64NXC/?tag=googleshopdsk-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341773207168&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4177550266835548323&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9072358&hvtargid=pla-308376761960&psc=1
I like the look of this one, has high sensitivity and an escalating scale of warnings based both on ppm and exposure time. Bit more expensive but!
www.amazon.com.au/KN-COU-B-Ultra-Sensitive-Battery-Powered-Monoxide/dp/B00IO64NXC/ref=asc_df_B00IO64NXC/?tag=googleshopdsk-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341773207168&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4177550266835548323&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9072358&hvtargid=pla-308376761960&psc=1
I brought one from Bunnings today hasn't gone off yet!
I still would recomending instaling the unit in a separate compartment than your living area if possible.
Apart from my anchor locker, everywhere else is open to the bilge and therefore living areas.
Ok , I see , a bloke here put one in a forward cabin he's not a liveaboard so not such a problem, I still think it's best to fit it in the aft section so all exhaust fumes travel from the transom. When I have northerlys I can smell the fumes in the south facing marina Berth, obviously perfect when on the pick. Keep us posted and don't be afraid to ask any questions.
regards
southace
Apart from my anchor locker, everywhere else is open to the bilge and therefore living areas.
You'll have to keep it aft to keep the exhaust run as short as possible as well as the problems Southace mentions.
Mine is open to the bilge and causes no problems. As long as the exhaust has no leaks it shouldn't be an issue.
Yikes! The heaters pull about 10 amps on start up I believe. What does your fuel transfer pump draw?
The DVK only monitors lpg gas doesn't it? what are you using to monitor carbon monoxide?
My DVk does it all if I spray any pressure pack near the pick up the alarm goes off.
You may be interested to know the that the propellant in pressure pack cans is butane, so of course your monitor will sing its t1ts off, it's the same stuff.
Yikes! The heaters pull about 10 amps on start up I believe. What does your fuel transfer pump draw?
The DVK only monitors lpg gas doesn't it? what are you using to monitor carbon monoxide?
My DVk does it all if I spray any pressure pack near the pick up the alarm goes off.
You may be interested to know the that the propellant in pressure pack cans is butane, so of course your monitor will sing its t1ts off, it's the same stuff.
What are you saying ?
My DVk does it all if I spray any pressure pack near the pick up the alarm goes off.
You may be interested to know the that the propellant in pressure pack cans is butane, so of course your monitor will sing its t1ts off, it's the same stuff.
What are you saying ?
I'm saying that the gas in the pressure pack is butane so of course the gas monitor will sound the alarm if you squirt any pressure pack near it.
I've bench tested my unit a few times over the past few days and all is working well. Southace, if your problem with your remote was pairing, watch this and it may help, I got mine paired up and working in 30 seconds.
- pairing instruction starts at 3:43.
I've bench tested my unit a few times over the past few days and all is working well. Southace, if your problem with your remote was pairing, watch this and it may help, I got mine paired up and working in 30 seconds. - pairing instruction starts at 3:43.
I see what you mean about the beating heart of the fuel pump, I've got a spot in my insulated engine box that should quieten it down considerably.
I popped down to the boat today to grab my clamp meter so I can check the current draw, I want to make sure the supplied power loom is adequately sized. I had a quick look at a few spots where I thought I'd be running ducting. It's looking difficult actually, I intend to mount the unit in the back of the boat somewhere ( a lazurette or near the quadrant) and I'm having doubts about being able to run ducting beyond the aft cabin. The boat designer/manufacturer has squeezed every bit of usable space out of the interior and there's just not much room behind things to get a ducting run in. I may end up just having one outlet on the base of the aft cabin bunk pointing out the door, we'll see...
I paried my remote shortly after posting here. I hardly use the Remote now anyway. I have my duct in the exact spot your your talking about works fine but not sure how the crew will go sleeping in that cabin while the heater is running.
my heater runs at 2kw low setting and draws 1.6 to 1.8 amps.
I've bench tested my unit a few times over the past few days and all is working well. Southace, if your problem with your remote was pairing, watch this and it may help, I got mine paired up and working in 30 seconds. - pairing instruction starts at 3:43.
I see what you mean about the beating heart of the fuel pump, I've got a spot in my insulated engine box that should quieten it down considerably.
I popped down to the boat today to grab my clamp meter so I can check the current draw, I want to make sure the supplied power loom is adequately sized. I had a quick look at a few spots where I thought I'd be running ducting. It's looking difficult actually, I intend to mount the unit in the back of the boat somewhere ( a lazurette or near the quadrant) and I'm having doubts about being able to run ducting beyond the aft cabin. The boat designer/manufacturer has squeezed every bit of usable space out of the interior and there's just not much room behind things to get a ducting run in. I may end up just having one outlet on the base of the aft cabin bunk pointing out the door, we'll see...
I paried my remote shortly after posting here. I hardly use the Remote now anyway. I have my duct in the exact spot your your talking about works fine but not sure how the crew will go sleeping in that cabin while the heater is running.
my heater runs at 2kw low setting and draws 1.6 to 1.8 amps.
Ok good one , glad you got that sorted. I'll probably use my remote because we mostly don't sleep with a heater on and it'll be nice to fire it up before we get out of bed. You may find that you use it more like that in your shoulder periods too, when it's not really cold enough to warrant having it on overnight, but nice to fire it up over breakfast?
I did my final bench tests this arvo. Using the clamp meter, my 5kw unit seems to draw up around 8 amps on start up (and shut down). Lowest heat setting - 1.6 hz draws only half an amp and the highest setting - 5.5 hz is pulling 2 amps.
I'm pretty impressed by the simplicity of these things and surprised at how clean they run. Can't wait to get it installed and working.
It's worth the effort to make a mounting frame like I did. You can see the duct outlet and control panel mounted in the aft cabin.
Ah yes that's exactly what I'd imagined, very helpful to see your vent set up, thanks.
And yes I will make up some kind of frame depending on the eventual mounting location. Very clever use of those Bunnings bent ply brackets there! I brought a couple of small ones for my shed the other day (I've been insulating and lining it out during my business's hibernation) and I was surprised at how rigid they are.