I did mine with International Toplac and it seems to last pretty well
Regards Don
Thanks Don, is your boat GRP? did you undercoat with their Pre-Kote primer product?
Hi 2bish
She is GRP and I just painted over the original painted stripe without any preparation at all
Regards Don
She's looking good Don! My boot stripe is similar to yours in that it has that white gelcoat band above the anti foul before it starts. but the boot stripe itself is something like 100mm wide.
I am gobsmacked by the amount of punishment and expense some dealing out to themselves!
In the name of what?
The boot stripe is not practical, got no aesthetical value (to me), it is not particularly dressing or nice, and at least on Rhapsody caused endless pain and suffering.
First pissing me off with the growth, than double pissing me off with the never ending scrubbing, time which l should have spent sailing as l eventually was, after the surgery. That red pain(t) was especially prone to the dark growth in my area giving the whole waterline a yucky, obnoxious, unclean look.
When the boat was slipped the first time, the painted boot strap was taken off and the hull properly finished, undercoated and antifouled up to the top of the original boot strap + 20mm.
After that l never had trouble with growth. Not that kind anyway. No more messing about with my mind either, pissing me off, forever.
The other boat, the family Benny has a dark blue hull totally devoid of any boot strap, thank havens, and so, always clean and nice.
It was really no fun to work on the yacht on utterly mertricious jobs, which got nothing to do with sailing in the closest sense, or to keep the yacht in good seaworthy condition.
I am gobsmacked by the amount of punishment and expense some dealing out to themselves!
In the name of what?
The boot stripe is not practical, got no aesthetical value (to me), it is not particularly dressing or nice, and at least on Rhapsody caused endless pain and suffering.
First pissing me off with the growth, than double pissing me off with the never ending scrubbing, time which l should have spent sailing as l eventually was, after the surgery. That red pain(t) was especially prone to the dark growth in my area giving the whole waterline a yucky, obnoxious, unclean look.
When the boat was slipped the first time, the painted boot strap was taken off and the hull properly finished, undercoated and antifouled up to the top of the original boot strap + 20mm.
After that l never had trouble with growth. Not that kind anyway. No more messing about with my mind either, pissing me off, forever.
The other boat, the family Benny has a dark blue hull totally devoid of any boot strap, thank havens, and so, always clean and nice.
It was really no fun to work on the yacht on utterly mertricious jobs, which got nothing to do with sailing in the closest sense, or to keep the yacht in good seaworthy condition.
Does the Benny you mentioned have the anti foul to the waterline or up further like you've done with Rhapsody?
I am gobsmacked by the amount of punishment and expense some dealing out to themselves! In the name of what?
I am right with you there sirgal.
Why in God's name would anybody add to their boat maintenance troubles by having a boot topping?? It adds another line to be masked off before painting making extra hours of work.
Then each extra stripe results in another TWO masking and cutting in lines!! Insanity!!
Further, stick on stripes are an absolute pain when it comes time to remove them which will inevitably happen.
However, that being said, I have to admit to doing the boot topping and stripe thing but It is inherited from the previous owners and from new.
The black boot topping line and the black gunwhale line are from new.
The red and yellow stripes are from the previous owner who was a Kraut and were stick on stripes. Under the red was white and under the yellow was red from new and that is how she is now (original). Sorry no pic yet but it does look very good.
When I antifoul in black it will be up to the top of the boot topping line.
The big name stickers are gone too. Regulation 80 mm name on the transom only.
The water line is the peccant part where the growing slime is interfering with sights and minds and later on fingers and nails.
I got no probs with decorative striping if one's hart desire them.
The previous ownership of your Lotus never been a secret to me. Schwarz-rot-gelb is an easy one to catch!
The name and rego tags are fine on the transom, if kept high enough to avoid any permanent wetting.
As far as the Benny is concerned it has a dark blue hull and black antifoul touching. Even more user friendly than on mine was.
I ran a car wrap business, before falling out with my young and often wayward business partner. ..he was a highyly skilled wrapper, while I was more involved in sales and management, and provision ofworking capital..lol. So just a couple of comments.
If the correct vinyl has been used (that is cast wrap vinyl.. Avery 3M most used) it should be relatively easy to remove using a heat gun or steamer. I say this from experience removing entire vinyl wraps from many cars. It also has a longer life.. 7 years in Sydney conditions. Rated 9 from memory.
If the vinyl is difficult to remove, it is amost certainly a cheaper vinyl. And then it is an absolute bastard to remove. Cheaper vinyl is harder to apply when wrapping curved surfaces, so most signies would only use the cheaper stuff on lettering and smaller easier areas to apply.
So I would not be scared off using vinyl because of difficulty of removing the stuff. Just make sure the installer is instructed to use Cast Avery or 3M wrap ..sight the vinyl before install..the type of vinyl used is identified on the backing paper.
I do not know about the suitabilty of using viny wrap to cover the entire above waterline .. I have heard conflicting opinions / varying reasons . I am tempted to give it a go next time my Marieholme is up on the hard. It would be a doddle for me to wrap in a day. And removal ...2 to 4 hours tops. My one caveat is I havent removed from fibreglass surfaces, but would not of expect any probs.
Sorry for my long winded indulgence..its just I have been procrastinating over whether to wrap my Marieholme Folkboat. BTW I reckon the best vinyl would cost me (at 8m x 1.5m x 2 sides) about $580... then transom and extra for curve another $120. So the very tops vinyl (based on wholesale) at about $700. Lets say $800.
Also re Shaggy's boat.. I think wrapping clear vinyl over old existing vinyl would be a no no for quite a few reasons that I havent got the energy to go into.
Cheers
Mike
The stripe near the top of the hull is very important for looks . If it is not present the hull will look much higher , fuller, fatter ect ....ie not as good.
Thanks everyone for your thoughts on this, I've never looked so closely at stripes on boat since starting this thread . I measured my boot stripe the other day from the top of the existing antifoul line/waterline. It's about 200 mm high including the thin stripe of white gel coat between the top of the antifoul and the bottom of the blue painted boot stripe.
I see the sense in extending the antifoul up to the top of the boot stripe. It is a problem area for growth and a hassle to have to mess around with. I also see that this will simplify future maintenance, so I'll probably do that.
I'm not married to the twin GT stripes at the top of the hull, but I can see that they visually lengthen the hull and prevent it looking too high. What are your thoughts, what do you think would suit this hull? If I do reinstate the GT stripes in some form, I'll paint them on rather than redoing them in vinyl (so I can touch up damage easily).
As l said above, the stripes-induced look of any yacht is secondary if not tertiary to me, could not give a toss what the rubbernecks think of it's looks as long as it sails well.
The stripes are not visible from afar, it is too close at the pier to give any effect, it is a superficial visual property which has nothing to do with speed, handling or sailing qualities.
I would never ever "visually enhance" my bike nor my yacht.
Thanks everyone for your thoughts on this, I've never looked so closely at stripes on boat since starting this thread . I measured my boot stripe the other day from the top of the existing antifoul line/waterline. It's about 200 mm high including the thin stripe of white gel coat between the top of the antifoul and the bottom of the blue painted boot stripe.
I see the sense in extending the antifoul up to the top of the boot stripe. It is a problem area for growth and a hassle to have to mess around with. I also see that this will simplify future maintenance, so I'll probably do that.
I'm not married to the twin GT stripes at the top of the hull, but I can see that they visually lengthen the hull and prevent it looking too high. What are your thoughts, what do you think would suit this hull? If I do reinstate the GT stripes in some form, I'll paint them on rather than redoing them in vinyl (so I can touch up damage easily).
I think the stripes enhance the row away effect. That feel good feeling you get from glancing back at your pride and joy after a pleasant day at sea. I would suggest washing the topsides down with Metal Gleam or an oxallic acid mix to return the hull to it's right colour. The scum just above the antifoul can be easily cleaned by treading water [with fins] with an ice cream container with some acid mix of your choice ]metal gleam] and a green scouring pad. Drift down the side and lightly rub off the scum. After a couple of minutes slop seawater over it to rinse. Wear dive goggles to prevent stinging the eyes. Wont hurt the hands.
I think the stripes enhance the row away effect. That feel good feeling you get from glancing back at your pride and joy after a pleasant day at sea.
I agree whole heartedly Ramona!!
I also get that good feeling when approaching as well :)
I ran a car wrap business, before falling out with my young and often wayward business partner. ..he was a highyly skilled wrapper, while I was more involved in sales and management, and provision ofworking capital..lol. So just a couple of comments.
If the correct vinyl has been used (that is cast wrap vinyl.. Avery 3M most used) it should be relatively easy to remove using a heat gun or steamer. I say this from experience removing entire vinyl wraps from many cars. It also has a longer life.. 7 years in Sydney conditions. Rated 9 from memory.
If the vinyl is difficult to remove, it is amost certainly a cheaper vinyl. And then it is an absolute bastard to remove. Cheaper vinyl is harder to apply when wrapping curved surfaces, so most signies would only use the cheaper stuff on lettering and smaller easier areas to apply.
So I would not be scared off using vinyl because of difficulty of removing the stuff. Just make sure the installer is instructed to use Cast Avery or 3M wrap ..sight the vinyl before install..the type of vinyl used is identified on the backing paper.
I do not know about the suitabilty of using viny wrap to cover the entire above waterline .. I have heard conflicting opinions / varying reasons . I am tempted to give it a go next time my Marieholme is up on the hard. It would be a doddle for me to wrap in a day. And removal ...2 to 4 hours tops. My one caveat is I havent removed from fibreglass surfaces, but would not of expect any probs.
Sorry for my long winded indulgence..its just I have been procrastinating over whether to wrap my Marieholme Folkboat. BTW I reckon the best vinyl would cost me (at 8m x 1.5m x 2 sides) about $580... then transom and extra for curve another $120. So the very tops vinyl (based on wholesale) at about $700. Lets say $800.
Also re Shaggy's boat.. I think wrapping clear vinyl over old existing vinyl would be a no no for quite a few reasons that I havent got the energy to go into.
Cheers
Mike
Cheers Insomniac for the detailed response, all good information.
Thanks very much!
SB