I find it more important to have level flight over (board parallel with the water) over trying to get your wing more aggressive by shimming. Moving your foil forward in the box to achieve neutral balance, then if it is Naish adjust the rear wing up in small increments to increase intensity.
Regards,
JB
Agreed that for general riding a board in level flight is desirable - but for getting up on small bumps (particularly on downwinds) the angle of foils in relation to the bottom of the board is crucial.
Essentially, future board designs bottom mounting points and standing areas should be level/parallel - ie do not put rocker in this area.......
Peter,
Dead flat will not work in many cases. As I have mentioned, the Naish 135 is very close to flat in tail rocker, but to get the ideal flying angle for the foil, they actual put a channel in the bottom of the board to set the foil at an angle as if the board did have rocker. Again we are assuming that the foil flies perfectly aligned to it's fuselage when it's in stable flight. On this note I find the following.
Dead flat rocker in the tail (Naish Hover 135 with channel to achieve foil angle). paddle speed is amazing, and gets up foiling earlier just addling onto swells/waves. Rockered tail like the Naish Hover 120 actually pumps better and free's the foil up sooner when pump paddling. Yes I get up on the foil sooner on the tail rockered board!
If I get time I will measure the fusleage angle to deck on my 120 and see what it is.
JB
Seems like keeping the nose clear while pumping is the argument for having some rocker, respectively not to shim the plate?
Right?
That would mean, the longer the board the more rocker i need ?
I shimmed the plate of my foil 5 mm in the back that means I changed the angle of the fuselage about 1.5 degrees
I don't feel any difference once I am up but the foil pops up much easier. Without the shim or wedge I could not catch small waves and now I can...
I improvised a wedge with layers of ice cream boxes and am still looking for something better, tips anyone?
I am surprised you do not feel a difference when you're up?? Obviously your flight angle is going to be effected, unless it was seriously out of whack to begin with (are you on a converted board or a production board?)
I bought my wedges from www.greypaddleboards.com , but it seems their site is down. Maybe email them and just ask for them. They do multiple sizes, for the sake of freight, if you need them, I'd grab a set like I did (1, 2, 3, 4 & 5mm).
Good luck with it all.
Ride safe,
JB
I don't feel any difference , perhaps the nose was to high without a wedge... 1.5 degrees means that the nose will be about 3 cm lower.
I have a production board, a JP Foil 7'0" and a NP Large foil
I am still a beginner and not good at pumping at all so I need paddle speed to catch weak waves and the 5 mm wedge makes that much easier for me.
Unfortunately I haven't found a decent wedge yet, I have made one out 8 layers of 0,6 mm plastic sheet.
A set of 1,2,3,4 and 5 mm sounds very good. I have tried to get hold of greypaddleboards with the contact form on their website and via facebook but no response
Just pack with large washers , that's fine.
Washers between the plate and the board ?
Doesn't seem to be a very durable solution to me ...
Only board I have, can't take any risks with it.
I was looking at making a wedge from rigid EVA foam block but was wondering about the give/ spring in the foam and whether this would effect the foil in any way ? Would hard plastic be a better option?
Thanks
I have used plastic resin squigees and or bunnngs plastic spatulas as wedges. Pretty handy as they are already wedge shaped. Cheap.
Nothing wrong with washers though......
Whatever you do, be careful that your solution does not have a pressure point not directly under the bolts.
For instance, using a custom board with the US boxes not perfectly sanded flat (by a surf shaper not used to the foil constraints) but with a bump in the middle will make plates break with the huge leverage on them. We had the example of a foiler who did not understand why he was breaking his plate - and losing his foil - on each session :-)
Whatever you do, be careful that your solution does not have a pressure point not directly under the bolts.
For instance, using a custom board with the US boxes not perfectly sanded flat (by a surf shaper not used to the foil constraints) but with a bump in the middle will make plates break with the huge leverage on them. We had the example of a foiler who did not understand why he was breaking his plate - and losing his foil - on each session :-)
I am not afraid to break my NP plate, it is bomb proof
The Gong plate is a lot lighter than the NP plate....
A piece of nylon kitchen chopping board works very well for a wedge but you need to shave it down with an electric planer, a grinder or a very coarse wood rasp. If you are used to woodworking it's pretty easy to do. I have also used solid fibre plumbing washers quite successfully.
So who can lend him the NP plate and who wants to order?
I'm in the UK but W Wales and he's down south in England. Also I've got a Naish foil. So absolutely no help.
BUT could you not just draw round the plate mount and email him the picture?
I've got US boxes etc off him before, nice guy, but not sure if his site is working just now. Might be worth contacting him on FB if he's not responding to emails ?
I have contacted him with whatsapp , he says he needs the plate to design the wedge and that he needs 8-10 orders to make it worthwhile.
his phone number is on the website..
I designed a wedge in Solidworks and found someone to 3D print it for me
It is 0 -> 8mm and the board side is a little concave to fit on the rocker of the board (JP 70)
I am going to get my own 3D printer next week...
Next qestion:
What paddle lenght is best for popping up when it is mellow?
I use my lenght minus 2" (5cm) this is the paddle before I started foiling...
Jeremy Briggs seems to use a longer one.