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laceys lane said.. well I surf at a big area wave currumbin alley. you could get a wave at the point and surf down to the twin towers and that would have to be nearly a k
back in the day there was a wider break sups used to own. it always seemed 3,4,5,6 foot. big long rides and big paddle backs. boards were longer, I had a what was considered a bit shorter than. a Gerry lopez ron house 8'10. man the board could run around some huge sections.
you kinda needed the longer boards to get the waves and to paddle back- it was perfect.
then it was cool to start go shorter and shorter to the point where those waves couldn't be caught as easily and you had to be a bit choosy with conditions- lots of water moves around the alley when swell is on.
jacko tells me when its big and he goes out on his gun 9,8 or whatever he's the only one really getting waves
so a healthy scene kind of went backwards. some guys gave it away, lots of us moved onto race boards .
I ran into cmc today . he was out on a 9'2. had a ball he said on the big fat outside waves and rode them through- reminded him of the old days and why he did it.
why we all originally did it
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Have to agree... Yep, best surf I've had for ages... Had the whole outside bank to myself. Take off wide, take off deep, fall off, get back on and catch the next one...
To be honest I really liked the shortboard SUP feel... so much I just chucked the paddle and went back to a 6'2 shorty or 6'4 Fish for fat stuff.
I drove past the Alley, raced home and got my 9'2 as I could see what was happening....... Stayed out for an hour and was exhausted, caught about 20 x 500m long waves, fat, bumpy, rangey, steep sections, fat sections, full fade sections... Everything you can't do on a really short SUP..
I got into SUP originally as it gave me access to waves others didnt have access to... Short SUP in my opinion while being super fun and great for the right clean conditions do not give you access to anything different than my regular shortboards... It's just a choice.
We can't all have 15 boards under the back deck after all.