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Legions surf report :: Daily updates..

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Created by doggie > 9 months ago, 23 Apr 2010
mocha1
WA, 934 posts
25 May 2020 8:17PM
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Road trip down to Greenrooms neck of the woods.
600+ ks for 20 waves, a few keepers, hard work, 12ks of paddling, glad I took the Gath when the hail and rain squalls hit, some whiteouts from squalls and wave spray.
Beers tasted fab on the way home.
7/10

mazdon
1197 posts
25 May 2020 9:24PM
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GPA said..

mazdon said..
city beach / floreat stretch is mental right now. solid double head close outs, and oh so much movement...




Edit: i just heard someone is missing off that stretch. hope it's a mistake and they're safe at home, and not that tried to go for a paddle and got in trouble



Swimmer at City Beach. Police report he made it back to shore safely... why the F would you go out there For a swim on a day like today...?!


Cheers, I'm glad

decent swimmer and been in ocean all my life, and immediately thought "yeah, nah drowning material" when I watched a couple of sets unload there today. Not in the least bit friendly

got a few in the kiddy corner near a port tonight though - fun

Coohan
84 posts
25 May 2020 9:40PM
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mazdon said..

GPA said..


mazdon said..
city beach / floreat stretch is mental right now. solid double head close outs, and oh so much movement...




Edit: i just heard someone is missing off that stretch. hope it's a mistake and they're safe at home, and not that tried to go for a paddle and got in trouble




Swimmer at City Beach. Police report he made it back to shore safely... why the F would you go out there For a swim on a day like today...?!



Cheers, I'm glad

decent swimmer and been in ocean all my life, and immediately thought "yeah, nah drowning material" when I watched a couple of sets unload there today. Not in the least bit friendly

got a few in the kiddy corner near a port tonight though - fun


Saw some solid close outs there this morning! Also surfed the kiddy corner this evening, was fun but didn't seem to link between the outside and the inside as much as it used to? Or just me?

Greenroom
WA, 7608 posts
25 May 2020 10:16PM
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mocha1 said..
Road trip down to Greenrooms neck of the woods.
600+ ks for 20 waves, a few keepers, hard work, 12ks of paddling, glad I took the Gath when the hail and rain squalls hit, some whiteouts from squalls and wave spray.
Beers tasted fab on the way home.
7/10



Souwester
WA, 1259 posts
26 May 2020 8:39AM
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Fun wedgy metro novelty beach break at dawn with no one out - where was everyone??

JulianRoss
WA, 543 posts
26 May 2020 10:32AM
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Souwester said..
Fun wedgy metro novelty beach break at dawn with no one out - where was everyone??


be there in a couple of hours...

Souwester
WA, 1259 posts
26 May 2020 11:25AM
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Get amongst it!

curlzbean
WA, 47 posts
26 May 2020 1:27PM
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lunchtime cruise with the wind just starting to come in
























Buster fin
WA, 2581 posts
26 May 2020 4:32PM
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Souwester said..
Fun wedgy metro novelty beach break at dawn with no one out - where was everyone??


Work.


It's easy for some.

mocha1
WA, 934 posts
26 May 2020 4:56PM
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Greenroom said..

mocha1 said..
Road trip down to Greenrooms neck of the woods.
600+ ks for 20 waves, a few keepers, hard work, 12ks of paddling, glad I took the Gath when the hail and rain squalls hit, some whiteouts from squalls and wave spray.
Beers tasted fab on the way home.
7/10






Too many mals and SUPs there, it would be hard work to steal one from that pack on a shortboard. It did look fun though that's for sure.

Souwester
WA, 1259 posts
27 May 2020 8:22AM
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Lumpy, bumpy fun this morning, few crew opting out after checking it - cheers guys!

Variable winds, still a bit of swell and some sweet banks taking shape.

Was a lot more fun in the water then it looked on land.

JESUSGUS
WA, 169 posts
27 May 2020 1:36PM
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Looks like a long grey shape moving through the lip on one of the photos above.

Banks everywhere at the moment. Great start to the season.

Razzonater
2224 posts
27 May 2020 4:44PM
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It is fantastic that I still have a job
it sort of sucks for me that the surf has pumped all through the week

we have a long weekend approaching which seems ok, wind is a bit suspect but I will get out and froth around so that is good

Buster fin
WA, 2581 posts
27 May 2020 5:57PM
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Yes. I'm sure your froth will be near mine.

GPA
WA, 2520 posts
27 May 2020 6:28PM
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Buster fin said..
Yes. I'm sure your froth will be near mine.


1.5m separation please you blokes!

Buster fin
WA, 2581 posts
27 May 2020 6:58PM
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That's nigh on impossible at the moment. Even if you go the death bank.

Buster fin
WA, 2581 posts
28 May 2020 4:17PM
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curlzbean
WA, 47 posts
30 May 2020 12:28PM
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Two rocks have the rangers on patrol today




GPA
WA, 2520 posts
1 Jun 2020 11:35AM
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Fun waves at a North metro beachie... Less crowded than expected and the crew were quite well behaved... I'd have to give it a 6.5/10 - would have gone 7/10 but for the effing weed

Buster fin
WA, 2581 posts
1 Jun 2020 12:33PM
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No weed where I ventured, but a decent rip keeping the punters honest. Same, 6.5/10

Buster fin
WA, 2581 posts
1 Jun 2020 12:34PM
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Yesterday was challenging, 2/10. Saturday more so 1.5/10.

Razzonater
2224 posts
1 Jun 2020 6:10PM
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Saturday for me was not too bad semi glass off mid morning
sunday layday
this morning was quite good but the crowd was out of control, surfed for about an hour an half not bad ,, family went out this arvo so I went for an arvo which was super super fun surprising and uncrowded on the bank I was in for about an hour

Ctngoodvibes
WA, 1404 posts
1 Jun 2020 6:40PM
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Y the crowds are still descending on out front is beyond me ?? packed to the brim even late arvo

Razzonater
2224 posts
1 Jun 2020 8:07PM
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Ctngoodvibes said..
Y the crowds are still descending on out front is beyond me ?? packed to the brim even late arvo


I think we are getting old, had a chat to me mate about this last week, yanchep now has 10-15000 people living between there and 15 minutes south, mullaloo to mindarie has about 20,000 or more if you include 10km inland along there.
Where we would go as kids to 20,s has a local boardriders club with around 50-60 members ( and growing fast) so those waves nowadays are not really worth 45 minutes in a car unless it's midweek and out of covid unemployment.......
If we head south the town of Mandurah had a population of under 5000 until the mid 90,s I'm not sure where you would say Mandurah stops now but from secret harbour to south of Mandurah there is over 25000 people within 10km of the coast likely waaaay more during holidays and weekends.
This means a lot of the day trip or early morning worth the drive spots are effectively written off as they all now have 100 or more locals.
Places I surfed for ever and ever with no more than 4-6 along the beach you can barely get a carpark on the sand since they opened Indian Ocean drive.
This means anyone within 15-20 minute drive from the trigg-Leighton stretch just goes "down the road " and hopes for the best..............

The crowd this morning was well out of hand, it was decent with good waves but just kids in the way, people bailing boards, people calling off others on set waves and going straight.
there was a body boarded out there who dropped in on three or four different people, he was old enough to know better however no one is allowed to shake the little turds up anymore.

In essence we have lost any sense or a quiet place, we have lost every sense of etiquette, and as such people carry that attitude with them when they paddle out everywhere.

This is why down south and up north crew hate long weekends holidays and the like as their bastions or hope and solitude are destroyed then further someone who has been there once, taken there by a friend of a friend takes photos and puts them on insta, Facebook, and anywhere else they can, naming spots and sharing maps.
within a week there are 100-1000 people going to go surf that wave....

We have lost our way

GPA
WA, 2520 posts
2 Jun 2020 10:41AM
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Razzonater said..

Ctngoodvibes said..
Y the crowds are still descending on out front is beyond me ?? packed to the brim even late arvo


I think we are getting old...

This means anyone within 15-20 minute drive from the trigg-Leighton stretch just goes "down the road " and hopes for the best..............



Correct Razz... I started surfing in 1980 at Trigg Point (on the inside break). Spent years out there surfing the second tier of the line up... taking my set wave when I had waited my turn or got called in to it... still got busy but there was a pecking order and etiquette. Used to do Derrs and the Spot often and occasionally Surf Beach at Mandurah - plus the odd weekends DS. Now I do not bother as do not want to spend the whole session hassling for waves or getting dropped in on or have kooks in front of me. Even an hour+ North is getting too crowded. Just not enjoyable. I now surf a less crowded B wave through Winter...

PS - I also blame the return of the foamies !

TimKay
752 posts
2 Jun 2020 1:00PM
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The crowd factor is becoming more important than the combo of wind/swell/tide
If it's too crowded to surf it may as well be flat

Surfer123
WA, 36 posts
2 Jun 2020 1:20PM
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pretty much what TimKay said.

i (used to) regularly surf because its an escape and release from all the other BS that happens day to day.

if i have to hassle and change my surfing values to get a wave, and usually a ****ty one at that in metro.... forget it.

surfing has lost its soul

Buster fin
WA, 2581 posts
2 Jun 2020 3:38PM
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You guys are on a roll.

The availability of cheap wetties and boards, combined with 'the vid', has further compounded the crowds. While the city had been effectively shut down, there were bugger all options.
And you fellas make it look all so much fun! Hell, even the lulls were enabling the kookiest first timers to get into the line up. Some funny results, sure, but just stoking the fire... Let's just hope some winter pastings will scare off a lot of them.
And has the general public forgotten about the men in grey suits? We need the media to do a commemorative story on a victim.

It's out in the sh!ttiest of sh!t for me, just to get some peace.

bolgo
WA, 883 posts
2 Jun 2020 4:59PM
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ditto

plus I reckon the quality that was at scabs e.g. manning st etc, just doesn't happen anymore
discussed here many times
so many backwash close out crowded sessions one can handle

then mals sups foils foamies

back to my knitting in front of the ABC

sls
WA, 179 posts
2 Jun 2020 9:46PM
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Select to expand quote
Razzonater said..

Ctngoodvibes said..
Y the crowds are still descending on out front is beyond me ?? packed to the brim even late arvo



I think we are getting old, had a chat to me mate about this last week, yanchep now has 10-15000 people living between there and 15 minutes south, mullaloo to mindarie has about 20,000 or more if you include 10km inland along there.
Where we would go as kids to 20,s has a local boardriders club with around 50-60 members ( and growing fast) so those waves nowadays are not really worth 45 minutes in a car unless it's midweek and out of covid unemployment.......
If we head south the town of Mandurah had a population of under 5000 until the mid 90,s I'm not sure where you would say Mandurah stops now but from secret harbour to south of Mandurah there is over 25000 people within 10km of the coast likely waaaay more during holidays and weekends.
This means a lot of the day trip or early morning worth the drive spots are effectively written off as they all now have 100 or more locals.
Places I surfed for ever and ever with no more than 4-6 along the beach you can barely get a carpark on the sand since they opened Indian Ocean drive.
This means anyone within 15-20 minute drive from the trigg-Leighton stretch just goes "down the road " and hopes for the best..............

The crowd this morning was well out of hand, it was decent with good waves but just kids in the way, people bailing boards, people calling off others on set waves and going straight.
there was a body boarded out there who dropped in on three or four different people, he was old enough to know better however no one is allowed to shake the little turds up anymore.

In essence we have lost any sense or a quiet place, we have lost every sense of etiquette, and as such people carry that attitude with them when they paddle out everywhere.

This is why down south and up north crew hate long weekends holidays and the like as their bastions or hope and solitude are destroyed then further someone who has been there once, taken there by a friend of a friend takes photos and puts them on insta, Facebook, and anywhere else they can, naming spots and sharing maps.
within a week there are 100-1000 people going to go surf that wave....

We have lost our way




Just found this. Seemed appropriate.
Only 7 years ago. Decent Scarbs with maybe 20 or so in the water.



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"Legions surf report :: Daily updates.." started by doggie