I tried unsuccessfully a few years back to find a couple or red clips.
the main reason they were used was to stop the pedal flipping backwards into the recess making the track inoperable.
the alternative is drill a small hole in the pedal and a small hole in the alu extrusion and tie a couple of knots on a short piece of cord to stop the pedal flipping up.
I think they also could be positioned to lock the pedal to prevent accidently moving the track.
Imax1. Yep your board is pimped all right! Dont reckon much of your stuff would stay STANDARD. Nice cushioned grip. Looks great. Whats the weight penalty?
Imax1, You appear to be very handy in the board manufacturing area. I wonder if you could consider the following: If you are able to access suitable equipment and materials and thus you are able to make durable and fit for purpose "3D printed" copies of "the red clip" or by some other manner of manufacture, I would buy several of them. I know others who may be interested as well. I believe Windpower in the US may even buy them from you. I don't know if you are prepared to do this or if it is feasible or not, but decided there is no harm in asking. If you don't want to do it or decide after considering it is just too much I would understand.
"25 OCTOBER 2017
Richard,
Thank you for contacting Wind Power!
At this time, we do not have either of the red pedal cap OR the daggerboardfor the IMCO Board.
As you may know, both of these items are no longer manufactured and are very
difficult to find or source.
~Warm Winds~
Thanks,
Ben Herdrich, Manager - WindPowerWindsurfing.com
Wind Power Windsurfing & Kiting Center
N7351 Winnebago Drive
Fond du Lac, WI 54935
920-922-2550
765-265-9932 mobile
RichardG ,
Sounds like 3D printing could be the go . Im also wondering about the strength of a printed part . I dont have a 3D printer and if i did there is no way i could use one , ( i still use a flip phone ) !
Unless you could sell multi thousands , the original injection molding method is not an option . Somewhere someone has the mold for this . Or its at the tip . Im presuming its not a Mistral part ?
The lack of centerboards could be a problem , they would be extremely time consuming and expensive to produce aftermarket. Even if one was completely trashed it would be worth repairing. I better not lose mine !
Plenty of people used to knock up wooden dinghy rudders and CBs. I've got one or two Raceboard/D2 CBs that are just shaped from a single piece of timber and not even glassed.
Select to expand quoteImax1 said..
RichardG ,
Sounds like 3D printing could be the go . Im also wondering about the strength of a printed part . I dont have a 3D printer and if i did there is no way i could use one , ( i still use a flip phone ) !
Unless you could sell multi thousands , the original injection molding method is not an option . Somewhere someone has the mold for this . Or its at the tip . Im presuming its not a Mistral part ?
The lack of centerboards could be a problem , they would be extremely time consuming and expensive to produce aftermarket. Even if one was completely trashed it would be worth repairing. I better not lose mine !
Thanks Imax1...I have a wooden centreboard, glassed as well, quite professional, which is better than the original MOD one...I am actually seeking the "red clips", for retaining the mast track pedal in the correct position, I am finding I occasionally knock it down while sailing and that makes it hard to slide the track when needed on the fly as it is then locked unless I stop and adjust the pedal back to the operable position..so will have to try to source one from somewhere else...Thanks again.
RichardG. There is someone on seabreeze doing printed parts. Think it was on Fangy fins article. Cant remember, maybe Nebbian?
Select to expand quoteRichardG said..Imax1 said..
RichardG ,
Sounds like 3D printing could be the go . Im also wondering about the strength of a printed part . I dont have a 3D printer and if i did there is no way i could use one , ( i still use a flip phone ) !
Unless you could sell multi thousands , the original injection molding method is not an option . Somewhere someone has the mold for this . Or its at the tip . Im presuming its not a Mistral part ?
The lack of centerboards could be a problem , they would be extremely time consuming and expensive to produce aftermarket. Even if one was completely trashed it would be worth repairing. I better not lose mine !
Thanks Imax1...I have a wooden centreboard, glassed as well, quite professional, which is better than the original MOD one...I am actually seeking the "red clips", for retaining the mast track pedal in the correct position, I am finding I occasionally knock it down while sailing and that makes it hard to slide the track when needed on the fly as it is then locked unless I stop and adjust the pedal back to the operable position..so will have to try to source one from somewhere else...Thanks again.
if you give me some time, i have an idea that might fix your pedal problem .i will try to make one and see if it works on my board .i will get back to you.
Select to expand quoteRichardG said..Imax1 said..
RichardG ,
Sounds like 3D printing could be the go . Im also wondering about the strength of a printed part . I dont have a 3D printer and if i did there is no way i could use one , ( i still use a flip phone ) !
Unless you could sell multi thousands , the original injection molding method is not an option . Somewhere someone has the mold for this . Or its at the tip . Im presuming its not a Mistral part ?
The lack of centerboards could be a problem , they would be extremely time consuming and expensive to produce aftermarket. Even if one was completely trashed it would be worth repairing. I better not lose mine !
Thanks Imax1...I have a wooden centreboard, glassed as well, quite professional, which is better than the original MOD one...I am actually seeking the "red clips", for retaining the mast track pedal in the correct position, I am finding I occasionally knock it down while sailing and that makes it hard to slide the track when needed on the fly as it is then locked unless I stop and adjust the pedal back to the operable position..so will have to try to source one from somewhere else...Thanks again.
Do the old trick of wrapping the black pedal with a lot of tape. It's better than nothing.
I'll see if I can find some friends in France who might still have some spare.
Great to see another healthy and interesting discussion on these boards. I have a Mistral One Design myself (an a few F2 lightnings etc) which are a delight to sail. The option for lightish wind cruising on these boards in pretty special. I'll post some tracks of some recent runs I have done when I download the GPS files.
From the photos I also see the mast base insert appears to not be the original. The original ones seem to work very well, provided they are washed and cleaned. I'm interested to know how yours is set up Imax.
I made a wooden centreboard for one of my F2 Lightnings which works very well. Difference with the F2 is that locking mechanism for the centreboard is "separate" to the board itself, so easy to fit to an aftermarket cb.
Clarence
Nice job Imax, did you hot knife the tread pattern into the EVA? I see that you have a 25mm or so boarder around the edge with no pattern. (I was going to try to do something similar to a Kona Elite RB after I do a few deck repairs)
With the parts, I would assume it would be easier to mill them out of a piece of polyethylene or more appropriate material. I made a new sliding car in the 90's for a old Mistral Malibu track in the metal workshop at high school out of alloy, lasted the 3 odd years I had it ok.
Select to expand quoteG30ff0 said..
Nice job Imax, did you hot knife the tread pattern into the EVA? I see that you have a 25mm or so boarder around the edge with no pattern. (I was going to try to do something similar to a Kona Elite RB after I do a few deck repairs)
With the parts, I would assume it would be easier to mill them out of a piece of polyethylene or more appropriate material. I made a new sliding car in the 90's for a old Mistral Malibu track in the metal workshop at high school out of alloy, lasted the 3 odd years I had it ok.
I used a air pencil grinder with a domed carbide burr . I made a small round of wood 2 inch diameter x 2 inch high . Drilled a hole the size of the grinder down the middle and with two wood screws held the grinder in place. Effectively making a tiny router. Then at 45 degrees stuck on the EVA 19mm wide masking tape at tape thickness intervals. This gives me proper spacing and straight lines . You use about a roll. It is a little wonky because the router wants to wonder a little. Rip up the tape and then go between the lines . Repeat on other angle. Its quite time consuming , about three hours routing . With 3 mm thick HD EVA i went 2 mm deep. Used contact adhesive to glue on . Dont use the self sticky eva grip , it will come off .
Select to expand quoteclarence said..
Great to see another healthy and interesting discussion on these boards. I have a Mistral One Design myself (an a few F2 lightnings etc) which are a delight to sail. The option for lightish wind cruising on these boards in pretty special. I'll post some tracks of some recent runs I have done when I download the GPS files.
From the photos I also see the mast base insert appears to not be the original. The original ones seem to work very well, provided they are washed and cleaned. I'm interested to know how yours is set up Imax.
I made a wooden centreboard for one of my F2 Lightnings which works very well. Difference with the F2 is that locking mechanism for the centreboard is "separate" to the board itself, so easy to fit to an aftermarket cb.
Clarence
The original trolly is underneath . I wanted to use the 8 mm thread option. So I made a bar 100 mm long with a pin that fits into the original hole. It also raises it above the Eva grip so I can use a standard 100 flange. There's a clearance hole where the 8 mm thread goes into the trolly . It's to spread the load over the entire trolly top instead of packing the base up with small washers.
Select to expand quoteImax1 said..G30ff0 said..
Nice job Imax, did you hot knife the tread pattern into the EVA? I see that you have a 25mm or so boarder around the edge with no pattern. (I was going to try to do something similar to a Kona Elite RB after I do a few deck repairs)
With the parts, I would assume it would be easier to mill them out of a piece of polyethylene or more appropriate material. I made a new sliding car in the 90's for a old Mistral Malibu track in the metal workshop at high school out of alloy, lasted the 3 odd years I had it ok.
I used a air pencil grinder with a domed carbide burr . I made a small round of wood 2 inch diameter x 2 inch high . Drilled a hole the size of the grinder down the middle and with two wood screws held the grinder in place. Effectively making a tiny router. Then at 45 degrees stuck on the EVA 19mm wide masking tape at tape thickness intervals. This gives me proper spacing and straight lines . You use about a roll. It is a little wonky because the router wants to wonder a little. Rip up the tape and then go between the lines . Repeat on other angle. Its quite time consuming , about three hours routing . With 3 mm thick HD EVA i went 2 mm deep. Used contact adhesive to glue on . Dont use the self sticky eva grip , it will come off .
Thanks mate
