I slept in today (well, by an hour) due to an unlikely wind forecast. Should've known better. Today might've been the best of the last 3, despite the swell drop. Soon as I got up and went outside I knew it was glass.
Swell is about to jump for tomorrow. Look at Albany. I have obligations so I don't know what I'm going to manage.
Well, I wasted a bunch of diesel today. Drove 2 1/2 hours total for 1'ers. I won't do that again. I suspected the swell was an anticlimax this morning but thought I'd take a punt anyway.
On the plus side, the big girl needed a run on the open road. The drive was more exciting than the waves for sure, seeing as I've done some critical engine work in the last 1000km and a heap of drivetrain work in the last few weeks. There was a shimmy at 98km/h that made me pucker up (not my lips) and at one stage a noise like a piece of tape stuck in the roof flapping that progressively got worse then stopped suddenly after about 30s. I need to check axle hub studs tomorrow, although it sounded a bit rhythmic and non-metallic for a sheared stud.
So when I got to the location, there were SUPs everywhere, a couple of goat boats, mals, etc. A handful of shorties at the place I was going. I was very easy going and non-confrontational and non-aggressive, sharing, etc. It was so crap. I got one or two turns before I realised it was just too small for my fat arse, so I spent the rest of the waves basically hanging 5. It was a day for the high volume boards. Nice day in the water though. Only spent about 2 1/2 hours due to the crappy waves. Next time I'll only go if it's well over 1m @ Cott. I had some good waves at the same location last winter when it was never below 1.2-1.3m. I was kind of hoping it'd rise on the way there, pulled up by the indicators down south.
I'll bet Trigg was good. 
Over to you doggie, was your Spot any good today? Crowded?
i gave the early a miss as the it would have been busy
rocked up at 1 and it was smoking and only 15 out surfed till 3.30 then the wind came in good timing on my part as the early was not that good
Trigg. 6" sets. Nice conditions. A juvenile dolphin swam underneath me, almost touching my legs. That was nice. I got 0 waves in almost 3 hours. Nice day for a paddle though.
Saturday went to D#rrs with 50 other people should have gone to secret spot, got a couple of good ones. Went with a mate from work so sorta was limited to where I could go.
Fun tho
Trigg. Orange full moon setting over the very glassy sea was cool. Paddling out the water was much warmer than the sand, especially with no wind. For the first 30min or so I struggled to catch a wave. The glassy water was exactly the same colour as the pre-dawn sky and you couldn't see the waves at all until they were right on top of you. No depth perception at all. Once the sun came up it was better, but the swell felt like it dropped (as it always does once the sun's up). I guess it was OK. Still closing out majorly. Fantastic conditions though.
I wish that I could of gotten into the water today, looks great on the cams, point packed looks great today 
Secret spot today, with dozens of my best friends including some rippers. I got plenty of right handers, more than I usually surf in a year. Wedgey little bank with some 1' sets. Got out late so it was OK for a while (couple of hours) then the sea breeze came in.
Among my travels I had a look at Trigg 3rds, closing out heavily with no banks and heaps of people all going for the same waves. Needs banks badly.
Is that what happens to non-locals invading your spot?
Speaking of carpark messes, the same backpackers as last week were at Trigg today. Same burgundy Pajero parked diagonally across two bays in the carpark workshop with backpackers ripping out the interior this time. Their mates had half their van on the bitumen, with one person sleeping on the ground next to the car. I'm tempted to complain to the council, they look like crap.
Oh yeah, back to the surf report. One wave I was in perfect position and there were three English or Irish on my outside. One fully blatantly dropped in and screwed up my wave completely. At the end we pulled off and he smirked at me and said, "sorry, didn't see you". I gave him a full serve. Of course he saw me, his two mates saw me and stopped paddling, he did too but he was the only one of the trio who could surf (and suprisingly not bad for a UK tourist). I was tempted to send him in, but instead hassled him and his mates until they paddled down the beach.
The other drop in I was well and truly up and riding down the line and a complete beginner decided to drop in on his stomach. He saw me and tried to bail way too late. I took evasive action but his board still hit mine, not too hard but again I threw some abuse his way. Frustrating. I contemplated being friendly and trying to educate him about dropping in but decided he was early in his surfing career and the chances were high he'd just give up shortly and I'd be wasting my breath.
Today I went to Trigg. I wasn't planning on it but woke up early to do some exercise and checked the graphs. Wind forecasts were wrong and it was light offshore. Waves were cleaned up wind waves, with a few swells thrown in. Small but good fun. Everyone else relied on the forecasts too because it was empty. When I arrived there was a guy and his girlfriend out at 2nds and two or three out at the point. When I left there were a handful at the point and about 1/2 dozen between the point and Scarborough.
Some arsehole hit my wife's car in the 3rds carpark, north end. There's a 1' x 1' dent in the driver's door. No note of course. She's mad at me for taking her car. It attracts dents, got heaps of small dings from people opening their doors into it at carparks. My 4wd gets no dings and is less likely to.
The scungy backpackers were all still there, 4 vans and the Pajero. The shower had spew in it, bits of onion and pasta. Nice. I attribute that to the scungy backpackers sleeping on the ground yesterday. You'd think they would've managed to make it to the toilets 50m away.
Had some nice waves down south mate, it was huge down there!! there has been some havoc going down in those carparks lately 
The car that got torched in the car park was actually some South African tourists
they went on the beach to have a little picnic last Tuesday afternoon
the robbers smashed the window and stole their stuff and then set it on fire
now there are two cars in the car park burnt out
there was nice waves coming through Sunday morning but it only lasted about half an hour
Can't make it on Tuesdays, other obligations. Unfortunately today and last Tuesday or the one before have been the best days of the week. Someone must be out there today, lucky them.
Yeah, I had 10min this afternoon (3:30pmish) and was in the neighbourhood so I went and had a look at Trigg. Surprisingly small and as straight as ever. I still would've gone out. Still will in the morning most likely.
I went this morning for a look but it looked tiny at 2nds/3rds. That was at 6-6:15am. I didn't see any waves that looked alright. I went home instead.
I went to the bike shop this morning again but didn't say hello again .
I didn't make it on the weekend. Obligations and by the time I was free the wind was in.
I went today but at 6:30am it looked crappy so I left. Maybe I should've gone out, as the cams make it look better than it looked to me (although the cams often make it look better than it is). It was a bit dark when I was there. I should've gone for a walk along the beach for a closer look maybe but I counted on getting home in time to still do some constructive stuff before work.
I will do legions report today -
Flat as a fn tack! not happy Jan!
Ahh thats better
