Made a good start on the blue foam inserts, just have to do the front plugs of the front straps, then glue them in.
It was beer O'clock when I got to this stage, so headed home.
When that's done, I'll transfer the positions on to a plastic sheet, so I can find them under the sandwich.
Looking good
How do you get the dust out of all your stuff ? Open the shed doors on a windy day ? There's probably some textas hidden in there.
I tend to share my shaping love with the neighbours swimming pools. They love me 
found the textas, they were in the cutting tools box instead of the writing stuff.
But still haven't come across the roll of carbon rovings.
Sweep as much dust up as I can, then blow out with compressor , then sweep again.
Fortunately it's in an industrial complex, there are no neighbors with pools. Apart from over the back fence, and they throw their rotten oranges over that, so I'm not worried about them.
finished the blue foam inserts, made a plastic template of their positions, cut reinforcing carbon for the impact area and did a bit of work on the rocker jig.
So board is now ready for Mark, aim is to have the jig ready to take to Mark, Monday arvo.
My part is finished for the moment, it's now over to Mark, Monday Arvo.
The jig's sitting on the board. Mark advised to get 15mm MDF off cuts from a cabinet maker, but I don't know any near me, and I had enough scrap stuff to make it out of foam and 3mm MDF. Probably took me longer in the long run waiting for resin to go off. But it was an experiment to see how stiff it would end up.
I had some nice glass tape that worked well, I was going to also use some carbon rovings, but that roll has gone astray. In the end I don't think they are necessary. We'll see what Mark Says.
Next stage starts, I picked up the board from Mark this arovo.
Big thanks Mark, did a great job with the most stressful part, vacuuming the deck 80kg foam on.
I'm very happy with the rocker, it's got about 1mm +ve between front of fin and 700m, and another 3 behind the rear foot straps.
It's very stiff, so don't think I need to add any more carbon, apart from patches under the feet.
I've marked out the blue foam inserts, and started working on the rails.
Tomorrow, I'll start glassing
Select to expand quotedecrepit said..
Next stage starts, I picked up the board from Mark this arovo.
Big thanks Mark, did a great job with the most stressful part, vacuuming the deck 80kg foam on.
I'm very happy with the rocker, it's got about 1mm +ve between front of fin and 700m, and another 3 behind the rear foot straps.
It's very stiff, so don't think I need to add any more carbon, apart from patches under the feet.
I've marked out the blue foam inserts, and started working on the rails.
Tomorrow, I'll start glassing
Mark's shed is impressive!
It certainly impressed me!
Prepared ready for glassing deck, but I have a gutter to re-secure, old pop rivets have let go.
Shouldn't take me long, but it will be too late to glass. Don't want to go back to the factory in the middle of the night to turn the vacuum off.
That should happen in the morning.
Select to expand quoteJohn340 said.. Mark's shed is impressive!
Lawn is not so great 
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..John340 said.. Mark's shed is impressive!
Lawn is not so great
Oh bugger, beat me to it!
Didn't go so well today, glad I got Mark to do the deck sandwich!
Not a huge disaster, but keep your fingers crossed of me, that it comes out not too bad.
1st problem was dropping the resin bucket on the floor upside down.
Luckily I'd recently swept, and could get the resin back in the bucket without adding too much crap.
2nd was putting the carbo0n patches on first, I thought this would give a smoother result. But when I rolled the glass out, it stuck to the carbon and I couldn't smooth it out, so I had to roll the glass back up and remove the carbon.
Things then went reasonably until, the,
3rd mistake for some strange reason I decided to put the bard in the back upside down, so I could make sure the bleeder layer was covering the overlap.
This means I couldn't smooth out the bag over the deck, so it's probably full of wrinkles. I'm not worried how the deck looks, but it's another sign I'm getting past it.
4th problem, can't get a good seal with the bag, the pump normally cycles 5sec on 1min off, it's now doing 10sec on 20s off.
Obviously a leak somewhere, but impossible to find.
I think the system should handle that, I'll find out about 4pm when I go back to switch it off, and take board out of bag to see how bad it is.
I wont vacuum the bottom, as it's only 1 layer of 200gm, I'll do a wet layup, that should make it more dent resistant.
Oh no - man what a day huh
Yeah, I still get caught out sometimes with the small bits on first then rolling on the wet-out glass farks them up. Board will sail the same with the wrinkles filled though
sometimes best to wet-out the carbon patches then bung them on. Then roll out dry glass over board, cut it to size then wet out same as a surfboard lam..... as the vac bagging will take away you excess and any bit that are a bit dry don't matter as we have the advantage of the filler coat that surfboard old-skoolers don't have
No worries, tuned out good.
Thanks to all that crossed their fingers for me.
Pics tomorrow.
You did an exceptionally good job!
weight now 3.8kg, probably go to 4.5 when I put the bottom on tomorrow.
All the plastic inserts aren't light,
But I'm guessing under 6 buy the time it's finished.
For safety, I spread peanut butter on the bottom of my resin buckets. That guarantees the bucket will always land right side up.
I'd be afraid that would attract ants, the very small ones we get here, don't go for sweet stuff, but they love peanut butter.
Select to expand quoteImax1 said..
For safety, I spread peanut butter on the bottom of my resin buckets. That guarantees the bucket will always land right side up.
I strap a cat to mine
Better day today, the bottom glass went on without a hiccup.
Here's the deck, out of the bag.
I could name a few people that would trim the carbon nice and neat, but I just slap the patches on. They are covering the right areas and it's going to be painted.
The foam block it's sitting on, is so I can weigh it and read the scale.
fin box in today,
Here's the hole marked and some packers to keep the router level, instead of following the "V".
The routing didn't go super smoothly, I have a long drill bit modified to use as a router, but the sides aren't very sharp, and melted the blue foam a bit, so I didn't get the precise hole I was aiming for. No problem didn't take much thick bog to fill the gap.
The box was still a fairly tight fit, but to stop it moving, I've taped it up from the deck and weight it down from the bottom.
Next step, is to cut off the excess box sticking out of the deck.
Then fix the mast track and foot strap plugs.
But that may have to wait, until we return from NZ.
Looking good.
I used to use packers for the router , now I use multiple layers of cheap masking tape each side to compensate for the V. Even with a lot of V , you only need half a dozen to ten layers to clear the ridge. And the router slides beautifully on the tape. And it's closer to the board,.and there is room for the swarf to go.
I bet that blunt drillbit made biblical noise . Mine is so blunt that foxes in Greenland can hear me.
The noise was a bit disconcerting, I thought it was just the carbon giving it a hard time.
Have you tried sharpening the flutes on a drill bit???????
Select to expand quotedecrepit said..
Have you tried sharpening the flutes on a drill bit???????
It can't be done by hand. You need a specialist milling cutter sharpening machine. You can send it out to get sharpened , but it would be cheaper buying a new wood drill bit at Bunnings.
would be much better if I could find a long enough router bit.
drill bits aren't designed for cutting on the sides.
dodgy you lot
get on eBay and buy the 3" long 9.5mm router bit.
Aussie shops won't sell it as its clearly unsafe for normal router woodwork but on boards its fine.
I find a six inch long , half inch wood drill fits great in my router. I start with a proper router bit and go an inch deep. Then plunge cut with the wood drill. When cleaning up the cut , the last bit of the smooth shank of the drill rubs against the router cut edges. The top of the board hole is perfect in line with the bottom hole. A rough 10 mm round file easily sharpens the corners to properness. There are additional skills needed. At least 2 , no more than 4 beers. A wide stance and safety glasses. A dribble of chewin tobacco down the chin also helps. Side cutting through a stringer adds extra excitement and noise. It's fun in a toe stubbing kind of way.
Almost there, got the sugar deck and pads on today, just need to buy some stainless steel screws for the srtraps.
It's just under 6Kg at the moment, the straps will almost add another kg
